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Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. Collection - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Evening gown, sleeveless, pin-tucked black crepe with long black cord tassels, 1930s, thread count
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1930s. Black crepe sleeveless one-piece floor-length evening gown with graduated pin-tucks, crepe shoulder straps, and long black cord tassels. The dress is made from a black crepe that has been horizontally pin-tucked from inside to create texture and shaping. The stitch lines are not even, indicating a homemade garment. From the outside, the effect is of a fabric assembled from many horizontal strips. The distance between the tucks varies depending on their location in the dress, narrowest in the bodice and widening toward the hem. In front, there are twenty-six bands ranging between 1.9 cm / 0.75 in. and 12.4 cm / 4.875 in. wide and staying essentially horizontal. In Back, there are seventeen bands ranging between 2.54 cm / 1 in. and 27.9 cm / 11 in. wide, with the strips staying horizontal and narrow in the bodice, and with each row growing markedly wider below the waist and curving slightly upward. The pin-tucking was done before the dress was assembled. The entire dress fits snugly to the body with shaped Panels and seams, and benefiting from the bias drape of the fabric. The bodice has a high waistline coming to just below the bust and is made of four pieces: one front Panel, two side-Back Panels, and a center-Back Panel. The front Panel cuts straight across the top of the bust, measuring 15.2 cm / 6 in. high at center, before dipping to the seam under the arm with the side-Back Panel, and has slight gathers beneath the bust. The Back Panel has a slightly scooped neckline shape and is 120 cm / 47.25 in. long, running the full length of the gown into the skirt and its slight train. At the waist, the Back Panel is 15.2 cm / 6 in. wide, flaring to 88.9 cm / 35 in. wide in the train. The skirt has two added Panels sewn together with a center-front seam that wrap around to join the Back Panel. These Panels are 31.8 cm / 12.5 in. wide at the waist seam, widening to 87.6 cm / 34.5 in. at the hem, and are further shaped to the torso with 12.7 cm / 5 in. long darts at the sides. The dress has a simple black silk lining made of one front and one Back Panel sewn together at the sides and to the dress along the neckline. The most dramatic element of the dress involves its shoulder straps and cord tassels. In front, 172 two-ply cords, 104.1 cm / 41 in. long, are woven into 35.6 cm / 14 in. of the top edge of the fabric, creating a shallow V neckline when they are divided in half at the center line and draped over each shoulder to hang down the Back. From the Back where they are sewn to the top of the side-Back Panel, 5.1 cm / 2 in. wide, 48.3 cm / 19 in. long crepe straps are first crossed over to reach the opposite shoulder, and are then wrapped once fully around the front cords draped there, from the outside to the inside and Back to the outside. The wrapping is then sewn in place, trapping the cords into a permanent shoulder strap structure, and the end of each crepe strap is sewn to the front of the dress. Sixty-two cords of the same length are woven into the ends of the crepe straps and hang down the front of the dress. The dress pulls on over the head. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1900/thumbnail.jp
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Evening dress, cream panne velvet with rhinestones and embroidery, 1929, side floating Panel join, detail of exterior
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1929. Sleeveless one-piece sheath dress made with cream panne velvet, embroidered with cream silk scallops, silver thread, silvered glass seed beads, and rhinestones, and with six floating Panels edged in rhinestones creating a floor-length hem in Back and a mid-calf hem in front over a calf-length main skirt. The dress bodice has no shaping and is cut from two pieces of cream panne velvet: one front Panel and one Back Panel, cut with a low scooped neckline and joined at the sides with a 24.1 cm / 9.5 in. long seam. Simple two-ply 21.6 cm / 8.5 in. long pieces of narrow cord function as the shoulder straps. The velvet Panels are 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. longer than the cream silk charmeuse lining, also made with one front and one Back Panel, which forces a slight pouching at the waist seam. The lining has an additional rectangular Panel floating across the bust, 17.1 cm / 6.75 in. high. The skirt has one front and one Back Panel, rectangles sewn smoothly to the slightly dropped waist seam. The side seams are 53.2 cm / 21 in. long with an additional 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. slit left open at the hem on both sides. Rather than a full lining, the skirt has one free-floating 19.7 cm / 7.7 in. wide weighted rectangle, sewn only to the waist seam, at center front and another at center Back. The velvet is embroidered with Art Deco scallops of graduating size, beginning at the sides of the front and wrapping to the Back, with the grouped effect of stylized clouds or wings. In front, smaller clusters of these decorate the hips in the skirt and the bottom of the bodice. All are made the same way, edged with silvered glass seed beads and embroidered with cream untwisted flat silk. Some have centers of looped silver thread (now tarnished), some have clusters of rhinestones, some have both. The smallest and shallowest scallops, at the beginning of each grouping, are laid out along diagonal rays of rhinestones. Short rays of rhinestones emanate from each successive layer of scallops. Six petal- or wing-shaped floating Panels of velvet are hand-sewn to the outside of the skirt along the bottom of each embroidered scallop grouping, each Panel attached only at its top and with its raw edge turned under, shaped to fit the embroidery. The rest of each Panel is left loose to drape, and its free sides are hemmed with rhinestones. The two Panels in Back are 81.3 cm / 32 in. at their longest, and are tacked together over a weight at a single point toward the hem to hide the shorter dress skirt beneath them. The Panel at each side is 57.2 cm / 22.5 in. at its longest, and overlaps the Back Panel. At the front, the two Panels have the most complex attachment to the skirt, sewn in along three rhinestone rays as well as to three scallops. The front Panels are 60 cm / 23.625 in. at their longest and overlap the side Panels. The dress pulls on over the head. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/2122/thumbnail.jp
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Dress, white cotton mull, 1812-1816, detail of center Back waist and skirt gathers
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1812-1816. White cotton and embroidered cotton mull high-waisted dress, one piece, with floor-length skirt and short sleeves. The dress is one piece, with a bodice and skirt sewn to a waistband and a center Back opening. The bodice, waistband, and sleeves are made of a plain woven fine cotton, and the skirt is made of a sheer cotton mull embroidered with raised whitework dots. The bodice has nine pieces: one rectangular front Panel 11.1 cm / 4.375 in. high, flanked by a side-front and side-Back Panel on each side, a Back Panel divided in two, and shoulder straps. It is plain, unornamented cotton, likely meant to be worn with a spencer. A mend 4.4 cm / 1.75 in. long has been darned into the front of the bodice. The front Panel has slight gathers at the bust where it joins the waistband and is slightly wider at the neck than at the waistband but lies straight and smooth across the neckline. The side-front and side-Back Panels have two layers of fabric, as does the shoulder strap, which is seamed to the side-front and center-Back Panels. The Back Panels have a drawstring in the neckline hem and are otherwise open down the center. The waistband is also open in Back. Its two buttonholes have been stitched closed and the buttons are missing. There is no other closure on the dress. The sleeves are short and puffed, with approximately 41.9 cm / 16.5 in. of fabric gathered into a 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. wide cuff band with a circumference of 28.9 cm / 11.375 in., and an armscye of 30.8 cm / 12.125 in., with all the fullness toward Back of sleeve. They are plain and unornamented and have one seam. A small triangular gusset 2.54 cm / 1 in. per side adds ease to the base of the sleeve. The skirt has four pieces and is unlined: one Panel each in front and Back, and two narrow gores. The Panel in front is a trapezoid 48.9 cm / 19.25 in. wide at the top and is sewn flat to the waistband, wrapping around to the sides of the Back; it is 82.6 cm / 32.5 in. at the hem. The Back Panel is 38.1 cm / 15 in. wide at the top and 76.8 cm / 30.25 in. at the hem. One gore is added in between the front and Back Panels on each side, measuring 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. at the waist and 15.2 cm / 6 in. wide at the hem. The Back Panel is slit at center for ease of dressing, and the combined 20.3 cm / 8 in. of the Back and gore on each side of the slit is tightly gathered to fit 5.1 cm / 2 in. at each side of the waistband opening. The skirt is finished with a deep 5.7 cm / 2.25 in. hem and two rows of tucks above it, each approximately 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. deep. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1356/thumbnail.jp
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Dress, white cotton mull, 1812-1816, Back view
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1812-1816. White cotton and embroidered cotton mull high-waisted dress, one piece, with floor-length skirt and short sleeves. The dress is one piece, with a bodice and skirt sewn to a waistband and a center Back opening. The bodice, waistband, and sleeves are made of a plain woven fine cotton, and the skirt is made of a sheer cotton mull embroidered with raised whitework dots. The bodice has nine pieces: one rectangular front Panel 11.1 cm / 4.375 in. high, flanked by a side-front and side-Back Panel on each side, a Back Panel divided in two, and shoulder straps. It is plain, unornamented cotton, likely meant to be worn with a spencer. A mend 4.4 cm / 1.75 in. long has been darned into the front of the bodice. The front Panel has slight gathers at the bust where it joins the waistband and is slightly wider at the neck than at the waistband but lies straight and smooth across the neckline. The side-front and side-Back Panels have two layers of fabric, as does the shoulder strap, which is seamed to the side-front and center-Back Panels. The Back Panels have a drawstring in the neckline hem and are otherwise open down the center. The waistband is also open in Back. Its two buttonholes have been stitched closed and the buttons are missing. There is no other closure on the dress. The sleeves are short and puffed, with approximately 41.9 cm / 16.5 in. of fabric gathered into a 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. wide cuff band with a circumference of 28.9 cm / 11.375 in., and an armscye of 30.8 cm / 12.125 in., with all the fullness toward Back of sleeve. They are plain and unornamented and have one seam. A small triangular gusset 2.54 cm / 1 in. per side adds ease to the base of the sleeve. The skirt has four pieces and is unlined: one Panel each in front and Back, and two narrow gores. The Panel in front is a trapezoid 48.9 cm / 19.25 in. wide at the top and is sewn flat to the waistband, wrapping around to the sides of the Back; it is 82.6 cm / 32.5 in. at the hem. The Back Panel is 38.1 cm / 15 in. wide at the top and 76.8 cm / 30.25 in. at the hem. One gore is added in between the front and Back Panels on each side, measuring 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. at the waist and 15.2 cm / 6 in. wide at the hem. The Back Panel is slit at center for ease of dressing, and the combined 20.3 cm / 8 in. of the Back and gore on each side of the slit is tightly gathered to fit 5.1 cm / 2 in. at each side of the waistband opening. The skirt is finished with a deep 5.7 cm / 2.25 in. hem and two rows of tucks above it, each approximately 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. deep. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1355/thumbnail.jp
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Dress, white cotton mull, 1812-1816, detail of interior of seam, skirt tucks, dot embroidery
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1812-1816. White cotton and embroidered cotton mull high-waisted dress, one piece, with floor-length skirt and short sleeves. The dress is one piece, with a bodice and skirt sewn to a waistband and a center Back opening. The bodice, waistband, and sleeves are made of a plain woven fine cotton, and the skirt is made of a sheer cotton mull embroidered with raised whitework dots. The bodice has nine pieces: one rectangular front Panel 11.1 cm / 4.375 in. high, flanked by a side-front and side-Back Panel on each side, a Back Panel divided in two, and shoulder straps. It is plain, unornamented cotton, likely meant to be worn with a spencer. A mend 4.4 cm / 1.75 in. long has been darned into the front of the bodice. The front Panel has slight gathers at the bust where it joins the waistband and is slightly wider at the neck than at the waistband but lies straight and smooth across the neckline. The side-front and side-Back Panels have two layers of fabric, as does the shoulder strap, which is seamed to the side-front and center-Back Panels. The Back Panels have a drawstring in the neckline hem and are otherwise open down the center. The waistband is also open in Back. Its two buttonholes have been stitched closed and the buttons are missing. There is no other closure on the dress. The sleeves are short and puffed, with approximately 41.9 cm / 16.5 in. of fabric gathered into a 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. wide cuff band with a circumference of 28.9 cm / 11.375 in., and an armscye of 30.8 cm / 12.125 in., with all the fullness toward Back of sleeve. They are plain and unornamented and have one seam. A small triangular gusset 2.54 cm / 1 in. per side adds ease to the base of the sleeve. The skirt has four pieces and is unlined: one Panel each in front and Back, and two narrow gores. The Panel in front is a trapezoid 48.9 cm / 19.25 in. wide at the top and is sewn flat to the waistband, wrapping around to the sides of the Back; it is 82.6 cm / 32.5 in. at the hem. The Back Panel is 38.1 cm / 15 in. wide at the top and 76.8 cm / 30.25 in. at the hem. One gore is added in between the front and Back Panels on each side, measuring 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. at the waist and 15.2 cm / 6 in. wide at the hem. The Back Panel is slit at center for ease of dressing, and the combined 20.3 cm / 8 in. of the Back and gore on each side of the slit is tightly gathered to fit 5.1 cm / 2 in. at each side of the waistband opening. The skirt is finished with a deep 5.7 cm / 2.25 in. hem and two rows of tucks above it, each approximately 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. deep. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1359/thumbnail.jp
Wen-hao Hsu - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Enhanced image quality of OLED transparent display by cholesteric liquid crystal Back-Panel
Optics Express, 2017Co-Authors: Heng-yi Tseng, Hung-chia Liao, Han-ming Chen, Ting Hsieh, Sin-an Lin, Hung-chang Jau, Hsu Ya-ling, Wen-hao HsuAbstract:The transparent active-matrix organic light-emitting diode (AM-OLED), which is a self-luminous polarizer-free display, is regarded as one of the most potential candidate of high-transparency transparent display. However, the image quality of the transparent AM-OLED depends strongly on the Background, resulting in poor contrast and image distortion. In this work, a transparent display with high image quality that combines AM-OLED and dye-doped cholesteric liquid crystal is demonstrated. Its electro-optical properties are optimized, enabling the transparent display to be not only compatible with active-matrix driving but also the contrast and distortion are sufficiently improved without sacrificing the transparency.
Jeffrey A. Buckel - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Can optimal trap mesh size be predicted from body depth in a laterally-compressed fish species?
Fisheries Research, 2016Co-Authors: Paul J. Rudershausen, Joseph E. Hightower, Jeffrey A. BuckelAbstract:Abstract We used fish body depth to predict trap center-to-center mesh sizes that would optimize size selection of black sea bass Centropristis striata for both current and proposed minimum size limits for this species. We fished trap types of five different square mesh sizes/configurations: (1) 38.1 mm mesh, (2) 38.1 mm mesh on five sides and 50.8 mm mesh on one side (Back Panel trap), (3) 50.8 mm mesh, (4) 57.2 mm mesh, and (5) 63.5 mm mesh. The 38.1 mm mesh trap was the control trap type. Back Panel traps are the minimally legal mesh configuration in this region while 50.8 mm mesh traps are commonly used in this fishery to further reduce culling of sub-legal black sea bass by fishers. Two previously untested mesh sizes, 57.2 and 63.5 mm, were evaluated because a previously published morphometric relationship between black sea bass body depth and total length (TL) predicted that the diagonal openings of these two respective mesh sizes would retain black sea bass close to the current (279 mm) and proposed minimum TL limits (305 mm). We estimated size selection of each experimental trap type by comparing catches of control and experimental traps. All but the Back Panel trap displayed relatively steep selection around the fish length at which 50% of individuals were selected ( l 50 ). Initial size at retention ( l 10 ) by the 57.2 and 63.5 mm trap types were nearly identical to current and proposed minimum fish sizes, respectively. Predictions from the body depth: TL relationship were very similar to estimates of l 10 and l 50 , based on uncompressed body depth and compression to 93%. The 57.2 mm mesh and 63.5 mm mesh trap types maintained catches of legal fish but reduced catches of sub-legal fish compared to the Back Panel and 50.8 mm mesh trap types. Relative to Back Panel and 50.8 mm mesh traps, use of 57.2 mm mesh traps would reduce rates of discard and discard mortality given current size limits in this fishery.
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catch rates and selectivity among three trap types in the u s south atlantic black sea bass commercial trap fishery
North American Journal of Fisheries Management, 2008Co-Authors: Paul J. Rudershausen, Scott M Baker, Jeffrey A. BuckelAbstract:Abstract We compared selectivity and catch rates of black sea bass Centropristis striata between two experimental trap types: Back-Panel traps (50.8-mm-mesh Back Panels; 38.1-mm mesh in all other Panels), which represent the new legal minimum mesh configuration; and all-Panel traps (50.8-mm mesh in all Panels), which are electively used by a subset of fishers. Catches in both experimental trap types were compared with catches in control traps (38.1-mm mesh in all Panels). Traps were fished from October 2006 to March 2007 in waters 12–30 m deep in Onslow Bay, North Carolina. Correlation analyses were used to examine postrelease condition of discarded black sea bass in relation to fish density in traps and capture depth. We found that mean catch rates of sublegal-sized black sea bass (<254 mm total length) were lower for control traps than for both experimental traps and were lower for Back-Panel traps than for all-Panel traps; however, catch rates of legal-sized fish were not different among trap types. Me...
Heng-yi Tseng - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Enhanced image quality of OLED transparent display by cholesteric liquid crystal Back-Panel
Optics Express, 2017Co-Authors: Heng-yi Tseng, Hung-chia Liao, Han-ming Chen, Ting Hsieh, Sin-an Lin, Hung-chang Jau, Hsu Ya-ling, Wen-hao HsuAbstract:The transparent active-matrix organic light-emitting diode (AM-OLED), which is a self-luminous polarizer-free display, is regarded as one of the most potential candidate of high-transparency transparent display. However, the image quality of the transparent AM-OLED depends strongly on the Background, resulting in poor contrast and image distortion. In this work, a transparent display with high image quality that combines AM-OLED and dye-doped cholesteric liquid crystal is demonstrated. Its electro-optical properties are optimized, enabling the transparent display to be not only compatible with active-matrix driving but also the contrast and distortion are sufficiently improved without sacrificing the transparency.
Yong Sheng Khoo - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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A Metrological Study of Accurate Indoor Characterisation of Commercial Bifacial Photovoltaic Module With Single Light Source
IEEE Journal of Photovoltaics, 1Co-Authors: Tian Shen Liang, Mauro Pravettoni, Jai Prakash Singh, Yong Sheng KhooAbstract:The IEC TS 60904-1-2 was published to standardize the indoor and outdoor electrical characterization of bifacial photovoltaic (PV) devices. In our previous work, we analyzed the requirements stipulated in the technical specification to limit the unwanted irradiance for single light source characterization, via evaluating two Back Panel materials of opposite optical properties, and the effectiveness of combining Back Panel and masking. Expanding on our previous work, we analyzed the impact of Back Panel optical properties, masking, and distance of Back Panel from module, on the maximum power of three types of bifacial PV module at three distance under all A configurations described in our previous work. A detailed uncertainty analysis was conducted. By treating the article as intermediate precision condition of measurements, the dominant uncertainty contributions arise from rear-side irradiance, repeatability and thermal stability, and homogeneity. When the Back Panel is placed between 5 and 10 cm from the module, uncertainty analysis shows that low-reflection Back Panels with diffusive or specular reflecting surface exhibits comparable results. The P$_{MPP}$ and total uncertainty increase as the distance decreases down to 1 cm. The results signify the importance of Back Panel at a safe distance of 10 cm behind the module to reduce the uncertainty contribution of rear-side irradiance, thus achieving accurate P$_{MPP}$ measurements. Masking is required depending on the amount of diffuse light present in the laboratory environment. Overall, the distance of Back Panel from module plays a much more crucial role over the choices of the material and masking.
