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Palamutçu S. - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • conventional Compact Yarns
    'Informa UK Limited', 2020
    Co-Authors: As Soyda, Gk Gunaydi, Palamutçu S.
    Abstract:

    This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on Compact Yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton Compact Yarns. Two groups of Compact Yarns were spun on regular Compact Yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular Compact Yarn spinning frame. Totally eight Yarns were spun at four different Yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun Yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on Yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved Compact Yarn characteristics especially at Yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached Compact Yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics.C1 [Soydan, Ali Serkan; Palamutcu, Sema] Pamukkale Univ, Dept Text Engn, Denizli, Turkey.[Gunaydin, Gizem Karakan] Pamukkale Univ, Buldan Vocat Sch, TR-20400 Denizli, Turkey

  • Comparison of fabric properties knitted by pin spacer Compact and conventional Compact Yarns
    'Informa UK Limited', 2019
    Co-Authors: Soyda A.s., Karakan Günaydı G., Palamutçu S.
    Abstract:

    This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on Compact Yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton Compact Yarns. Two groups of Compact Yarns were spun on regular Compact Yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular Compact Yarn spinning frame. Totally eight Yarns were spun at four different Yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun Yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on Yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved Compact Yarn characteristics especially at Yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached Compact Yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics. © 2019, © 2019 The Textile Institute

  • Evaluation of cotton fibre properties in Compact Yarn spinning processes and investigation of fibre and Yarn properties
    'Index Copernicus', 2018
    Co-Authors: Günaydın, Gizem Karakan, Soydan A.s., Palamutçu S.
    Abstract:

    Fibre properties are influential factors for Yarn properties. Cotton, whose physical properties vary depending on the cultivation region, is still a very common fibre used in the textile industry. Properties such as fibre length, fineness, strength and maturity affect Yarn tensility, evenness, imperfections and hairiness. Four different 100% cotton blends were used as raw material (American cotton, Aegean cotton, Urfa cotton, Greek cotton) to be converted into 20 tex Compact Yarns separately. HVI parameters of each blend type starting from the bale until the 2nd drawing passage machine revealed that Yarn processing stages and machinery are influential factors for fibre the properties of fibres that are produced on a spinning line. Additionally ANOVA tests supported the idea that the evenness, tensility, Yarn imperfections, and hairiness parameter of Yarns produced from various cotton blends were statistically different. Principal Component Analyses (PCA) and the Correlation Matrix were also applied in order to analyse the relationship between fibre properties and Compact Yarn properties of different blends. © 2018, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres. All rights reserved

  • and Investigation of Fibre and Yarn Properties
    'Index Copernicus', 2018
    Co-Authors: Gk Gunaydin, As Soydan, Palamutçu S.
    Abstract:

    Fibre properties are influential factors for Yarn properties. Cotton, whose physical properties vary depending on the cultivation region, is still a very common fibre used in the textile industry Properties such as fibre length,fineness, strength and maturity affect Yarn tensility, evenness, imperfections and hairiness. Four different 100% cotton blend's were used as raw material (American cotton, Aegean cotton, Urfa cotton, Greek cotton) to be converted into 20 tex Compact Yarns separately. IIVI parameters of each blend type starting from the bale until the 2nd drawing passage machine revealed that Yarn processing stages and machinery are influential factors for fibre the properties of fibres that are produced on a spinning line. Additionally ANOVA tests supported the idea that the evenness, tensility Yarn imperfections, and hairiness parameter of Yarns produced front various cotton blends were statistically different. Principal Component Analyses (PCA) and the Correlation Matrix were also applied in order to analyse the relationship between, fibre properties and Compact Yarn properties of different blends

Çetin Emel - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Ring ve kompakt ipliklerde sürtünme katsayısının ve iplik tüylülüğünün pilling üzerine etkisi
    Marmara Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, 2009
    Co-Authors: Çetin Emel
    Abstract:

    ÖZETKumaşlarda oluşan pilling, kumaşın kullanımı sırasında önemli bir sorun olarak karşımıza çıkmaktadır. Bugüne kadar yapılan araştırmalar pilling’i azaltma yönünde olmuştur. Bu çalışmada pilling’e neden olan faktörler üzerinde, iplik inceliği, iplik türü (Ring, Com4), iplik sürtünme katsayısı ve iplik tüylülüğü incelenmiştir.Bu amaçla çalışmada % 100 pamuk ve iki farklı sistem (Ring, Com4) ile eğrilmiş, dört farklı numarada ( Ne 24, Ne 30, Ne 40, Ne 60) toplam sekiz farklı iplikten süprem örme kumaş üretilmiştir. İpliklerin numara, abrasyon, büküm, mukavemet, % uzama, iplik tüylülüğü, sürtünme katsayısı ve kumaşların pilling testleri yapılmıştır.Elde edilen sonuçlara göre iplik tüylülüğü ve pilling miktarı arasında pozitif korelasyon bulunmuştur. İplik tüylülüğü azaldıkça pilling sonuçlarında iyileşme meydana gelmiştir. Ring ve kompakt ipliğinde numara arttıkça sürtünme katsayısında artış gözlemlenmiş ve aynı şekilde ipliklerin pilling değerlerinde de artma meydana gelmiştir. Buna bağlı olarak sürtünme katsayısı ve pilling arasında pozitif korelasyon vardır denilebilir. Bu sonuçlara göre tüylülük azaldıkça sürtünme katsayısında artma gözlenmiş olup aralarında ters orantı olduğu saptanmıştır.ABSTRACTThe pilling is an important problem during the usage of the fabrics.The researches made till today has become to reduce the pilling. The factorswhich cause to pilling have been studied. It is known that Yarn hairiness hasan important effect on pilling. Therefore, new spinning systems have beenstarted to enhance alternatively to the conventional spinning methods.Compact spinning can be given as an example to this. Mainly, because thehairiness of the Compact Yarn is less than the ring spinning system.In this work, hairiness on pilling and the friction of coefficient havebeen both studied. For this purpose, the effect of Yarn hairiness and thefriction of coefficient on pilling were studied on the knitted fabrics whichwere produced by producing eight different lineer densities (Ne 24, Ne 30, Ne40, Ne 60) of 100% cotton Yarns which were spinned with two differentsystems (ring, Compact).As a result, it has been found that there is a positive correlationbetween ring-spun Yarn hairiness and the pilling, on the other hand, there is anegative correlation between friction of coefficient and pilling. Accordingly,there is also a negative correlation between the friction of coefficient andhairiness of the ring-spun Yarn. In other words, as the hairiness increases thefriction of coefficient of the ring-spun Yarn decreases. However, on theCompact Yarns no correlation were observed between the hairiness andfriction of coefficient; it was found that as the hairiness decreased the pillingof the fabric were also decreased which is produced from Compact Yarn

  • Ring ve kompakt ipliklerde sürtünme katsayısının ve iplik tüylülüğünün pilling üzerine etkisi
    'Marmara Universitesi Ilahiyat Fakultesi Dergisi', 2009
    Co-Authors: Çetin Emel
    Abstract:

    Kumaşlarda oluşan pilling, kumaşın kullanımı sırasında önemli bir sorun olarak karşımıza çıkmaktadır. Bugüne kadar yapılan araştırmalar pilling’i azaltma yönünde olmuştur. Bu çalışmada pilling’e neden olan faktörler üzerinde, iplik inceliği, iplik türü (Ring, Com4), iplik sürtünme katsayısı ve iplik tüylülüğü incelenmiştir. Bu amaçla çalışmada % 100 pamuk ve iki farklı sistem (Ring, Com4) ile eğrilmiş, dört farklı numarada ( Ne 24, Ne 30, Ne 40, Ne 60) toplam sekiz farklı iplikten süprem örme kumaş üretilmiştir. İpliklerin numara, abrasyon, büküm, mukavemet, % uzama, iplik tüylülüğü, sürtünme katsayısı ve kumaşların pilling testleri yapılmıştır. Elde edilen sonuçlara göre iplik tüylülüğü ve pilling miktarı arasında pozitif korelasyon bulunmuştur. İplik tüylülüğü azaldıkça pilling sonuçlarında iyileşme meydana gelmiştir. Ring ve kompakt ipliğinde numara arttıkça sürtünme katsayısında artış gözlemlenmiş ve aynı şekilde ipliklerin pilling değerlerinde de artma meydana gelmiştir. Buna bağlı olarak sürtünme katsayısı ve pilling arasında pozitif korelasyon vardır denilebilir. Bu sonuçlara göre tüylülük azaldıkça sürtünme katsayısında artma gözlenmiş olup aralarında ters orantı olduğu saptanmıştır. ABSTRACT The pilling is an important problem during the usage of the fabrics. The researches made till today has become to reduce the pilling. The factors which cause to pilling have been studied. It is known that Yarn hairiness has an important effect on pilling. Therefore, new spinning systems have been started to enhance alternatively to the conventional spinning methods. Compact spinning can be given as an example to this. Mainly, because the hairiness of the Compact Yarn is less than the ring spinning system. In this work, hairiness on pilling and the friction of coefficient have been both studied. For this purpose, the effect of Yarn hairiness and the friction of coefficient on pilling were studied on the knitted fabrics which were produced by producing eight different lineer densities (Ne 24, Ne 30, Ne 40, Ne 60) of 100% cotton Yarns which were spinned with two different systems (ring, Compact). As a result, it has been found that there is a positive correlation between ring-spun Yarn hairiness and the pilling, on the other hand, there is a negative correlation between friction of coefficient and pilling. Accordingly, there is also a negative correlation between the friction of coefficient and hairiness of the ring-spun Yarn. In other words, as the hairiness increases the friction of coefficient of the ring-spun Yarn decreases. However, on the Compact Yarns no correlation were observed between the hairiness and friction of coefficient; it was found that as the hairiness decreased the pilling of the fabric were also decreased which is produced from Compact Yarn

Sezgin Öznur - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • İşçilerin sigarayı bırakmasında iş sağlığı hemşiresinin rolü
    Marmara Üniversitesi Sağlık Bilimleri Enstitüsü, 2009
    Co-Authors: Sezgin Öznur
    Abstract:

    ÖZETBu çalışma işçilerin sigarayı bırakmasında iş sağlığı hemşiresinin rolünü belirlemek amacıyla randomize kontrollü deneysel araştırma olarak yapıldı.Araştırmanın evrenini, İstanbul’da bulunan bir ilaç fabrikasında çalışan ve sigara kullanan işçiler oluşturdu (N=180). Basit rastgele sayılar tablosu ile 50 kişi girişim ve 50 kişi de kontrol grubuna ayrıldı. Çalışmada veri toplama aracı olarak literatür bilgisi doğrultusunda araştırmacı tarafından geliştirilen anket formları Değerlendirme Anketi I ve II kullanıldı. Anketler uygulandıktan sonra girişim ve kontrol grubundaki işçilerin tükürük kotinin düzeylerine bakıldı. Verilerin istatistiki değerlendirmesinde, t testi, ki-kare analizi, Mann-Whitney U testi, Mc Nemar test ve Wilcoxon Test kullanıldı.Ön değerlendirmeden 6 ay sonra yapılan son değerlendirmede sigara kullanma durumu değerlendirildiğinde kontrol grubunda 1 kişinin, girişim grubunda 13 kişinin sigarayı bıraktığı belirlendi. Ön değerlendirmede işçilerin kotinin ortalamaları girişim grubunda 3.48 ± 0.81, kontrol grubunda 3.44 ± 0.78’idi. Son değerlendirmede ise, girişim grubunun kotinin ortalaması (2.50±1.64) kontrol grubundan (3.58 ± 0.88) istatistiksel olarak anlamlı düşüktü.Araştırma iş sağlığı hemşiresi tarafından uygulanan sigara bırakma programının başarılı olduğunu gösterdi.Anahtar Sözcükler: Hemşire, işyeri, sağlığı geliştirme, sigara bağımlılığı, sigara bırakma.ABSTRACTThe pilling is an important problem during the usage of the fabrics.The researches made till today has become to reduce the pilling. The factorswhich cause to pilling have been studied. It is known that Yarn hairiness hasan important effect on pilling. Therefore, new spinning systems have beenstarted to enhance alternatively to the conventional spinning methods.Compact spinning can be given as an example to this. Mainly, because thehairiness of the Compact Yarn is less than the ring spinning system.In this work, hairiness on pilling and the friction of coefficient havebeen both studied. For this purpose, the effect of Yarn hairiness and thefriction of coefficient on pilling were studied on the knitted fabrics whichwere produced by producing eight different lineer densities (Ne 24, Ne 30, Ne40, Ne 60) of 100% cotton Yarns which were spinned with two differentsystems (ring, Compact).As a result, it has been found that there is a positive correlationbetween ring-spun Yarn hairiness and the pilling, on the other hand, there is anegative correlation between friction of coefficient and pilling. Accordingly,there is also a negative correlation between the friction of coefficient andhairiness of the ring-spun Yarn. In other words, as the hairiness increases thefriction of coefficient of the ring-spun Yarn decreases. However, on theCompact Yarns no correlation were observed between the hairiness andfriction of coefficient; it was found that as the hairiness decreased the pillingof the fabric were also decreased which is produced from Compact yar

  • İşçilerin sigarayı bırakmasında iş sağlığı hemşiresinin rolü
    'Marmara Universitesi Ilahiyat Fakultesi Dergisi', 2009
    Co-Authors: Sezgin Öznur
    Abstract:

    Bu çalışma işçilerin sigarayı bırakmasında iş sağlığı hemşiresinin rolünü belirlemek amacıyla randomize kontrollü deneysel araştırma olarak yapıldı. Araştırmanın evrenini, İstanbul’da bulunan bir ilaç fabrikasında çalışan ve sigara kullanan işçiler oluşturdu (N=180). Basit rastgele sayılar tablosu ile 50 kişi girişim ve 50 kişi de kontrol grubuna ayrıldı. Çalışmada veri toplama aracı olarak literatür bilgisi doğrultusunda araştırmacı tarafından geliştirilen anket formları Değerlendirme Anketi I ve II kullanıldı. Anketler uygulandıktan sonra girişim ve kontrol grubundaki işçilerin tükürük kotinin düzeylerine bakıldı. Verilerin istatistiki değerlendirmesinde, t testi, ki-kare analizi, Mann-Whitney U testi, Mc Nemar test ve Wilcoxon Test kullanıldı. Ön değerlendirmeden 6 ay sonra yapılan son değerlendirmede sigara kullanma durumu değerlendirildiğinde kontrol grubunda 1 kişinin, girişim grubunda 13 kişinin sigarayı bıraktığı belirlendi. Ön değerlendirmede işçilerin kotinin ortalamaları girişim grubunda 3.48 ± 0.81, kontrol grubunda 3.44 ± 0.78’idi. Son değerlendirmede ise, girişim grubunun kotinin ortalaması (2.50±1.64) kontrol grubundan (3.58 ± 0.88) istatistiksel olarak anlamlı düşüktü. Araştırma iş sağlığı hemşiresi tarafından uygulanan sigara bırakma programının başarılı olduğunu gösterdi. Anahtar Sözcükler: Hemşire, işyeri, sağlığı geliştirme, sigara bağımlılığı, sigara bırakma. ABSTRACT The pilling is an important problem during the usage of the fabrics. The researches made till today has become to reduce the pilling. The factors which cause to pilling have been studied. It is known that Yarn hairiness has an important effect on pilling. Therefore, new spinning systems have been started to enhance alternatively to the conventional spinning methods. Compact spinning can be given as an example to this. Mainly, because the hairiness of the Compact Yarn is less than the ring spinning system. In this work, hairiness on pilling and the friction of coefficient have been both studied. For this purpose, the effect of Yarn hairiness and the friction of coefficient on pilling were studied on the knitted fabrics which were produced by producing eight different lineer densities (Ne 24, Ne 30, Ne 40, Ne 60) of 100% cotton Yarns which were spinned with two different systems (ring, Compact). As a result, it has been found that there is a positive correlation between ring-spun Yarn hairiness and the pilling, on the other hand, there is a negative correlation between friction of coefficient and pilling. Accordingly, there is also a negative correlation between the friction of coefficient and hairiness of the ring-spun Yarn. In other words, as the hairiness increases the friction of coefficient of the ring-spun Yarn decreases. However, on the Compact Yarns no correlation were observed between the hairiness and friction of coefficient; it was found that as the hairiness decreased the pilling of the fabric were also decreased which is produced from Compact yar

Syed Fakhrul Hasan - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • effective processing time cost management of dyes chemicals utilities used in the combed Compact knit fabric colouration in the dyeing textile industries
    American Journal of Energy and Environment, 2016
    Co-Authors: Md Shipan Mia, Ashaduzzaman Himel, Md Razu Ahmed Ahmed, Syed Fakhrul Hasan
    Abstract:

    Industrialization is an inevitable feature of economic intensification in a developing country. The textile dyeing industries uses huge amount of water, steam & electricity and substantial quantities of complex chemicals. Textile dyeing house operating in this sector are facing significant challenges to reduce their natural resources and energy consumption. The main purposes of this investigation is to reduce the process time, cost of chemicals, cost of utilities and cost of effluent treatment. In the very beginning of this research, properties of Compact and combed Yarn were investigated. Then wet processing and process time required for both the Compact and combed fabric are compared. Later on different costs associated with the wet processing of both Compact and combed Yarn fabric are also analyzed. Through this work it is tried to focus on the use of Compact Yarn fabric instead of combed Yarn could be the best possible way to meet the challenges faced by the textile dyeing as well as textile industries

  • Effective Processing Time & Cost Management of Dyes, Chemicals & Utilities Used in the Combed & Compact Knit Fabric Colouration in the Dyeing Textile Industries
    2016
    Co-Authors: Shipan Mia, Ashaduzzaman Himel, Razu Ahmed Ahmed, Syed Fakhrul Hasan
    Abstract:

    Industrialization is an inevitable feature of economic intensification in a developing country. The textile dyeing industries uses huge amount of water, steam & electricity and substantial quantities of complex chemicals. Textile dyeing house operating in this sector are facing significant challenges to reduce their natural resources and energy consumption. The main purposes of this investigation is to reduce the process time, cost of chemicals, cost of utilities and cost of effluent treatment. In the very beginning of this research, properties of Compact and combed Yarn were investigated. Then wet processing and process time required for both the Compact and combed fabric are compared. Later on different costs associated with the wet processing of both Compact and combed Yarn fabric are also analyzed. Through this work it is tried to focus on the use of Compact Yarn fabric instead of combed Yarn could be the best possible way to meet the challenges faced by the textile dyeing as well as textile industries

Huang Xinxi - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Surface characteristics of low-twist worsted Yarns and knitted fabrics
    The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2016
    Co-Authors: Huang Xinxi
    Abstract:

    PolyU Library Call No.: [THS] LG51 .H577P ITC 2016 Huangxxxii, 259 pages :color illustrationsWool apparel and other textile products are of high value and popularity in the market all the time because of their aesthetic quality and comfort. With the increasing demand of light, thin and comfortable knitted fabrics, it is desirable to have wool Yarns in medium to high counts with better Yarn evenness, less hairiness, soft handle and reasonable tenacity, etc. By literature review, ring spinning continues to predominate in worsted Yarn manufacturing industry because of its high quality of Yarns and good flexibility in materials and Yarn count. Many modifications have been conducted to enhance the control of fibers in spinning triangle and reduce Yarn hairs, but nearly have no improvement on Yarn soft handle and evenness. However,over ten years ago, a modified technology on the ring frame was developed by employing a false twisting device and a strand separator, which was named as Nu-torqueTM or low-torque or low-twist spinning. Since then, the technology has evolved in five versions. The low-twist cotton Yarns exceed other types of modified ring spun Yarns with respect to softer handle, lower residual torque, and outweigh the conventional ring Yarns in aspects of higher tenacity, lower hairiness, etc. Previous versions of low-twist worsted Yarn technology have produced low-twist worsted Yarns in median and coarse count, however, some problems were found such as worse Yarn optical evenness, more neps and tight wrapper fibers, as well as lower Yarn tenacity, among which, the wrapper fibers give rise to obvious "bar effect" on the dyed knitted wool fabrics. Hence, this thesis is aimed at investigating these problems and exploring possible solutions from both theoretical and practical points of views. The surface structure of 24Nm low-twist worsted Yarns are examined under Microscope Lecia M165 in details and classified into five types including three kinds of wrapping structures and two kinds of unwrapped structures. In particular, the tightly wrapping structures take up almost 60% on the low-twist Yarns. These tightly wrapping structures not only bring about quite Compact Yarn structures resulting in harsh handle of Yarns and fabrics,but also deteriorate Yarn optical evenness resulted from obviously smaller diameters than conventional Yarn structures and higher variations. Using high speed camera system, the formation of wrapper fibers on the low-twist Yarn surface has been investigated. It is found that the abrasion between Yarns or the protruding fiber ends and the upper false-twister or the lower false-twister, the fiber security of Yarns in A zone, as well as the false-twisting effects exerted by the two false-twisters, have effects on the wrapper fiber formation; more importantly, the wrapper fibers have roots in the long protruding fiber ends in A zone on the low-twist spinning system, namely, the hairiness of 3mm and longer of the Yarn segment between the spinning triangle and the false-twister. Besides, the bulked Yarn segment resulted from excessive twists in A zone is reckoned as the reason for the formation of the curved Yarns with tight wrapper fibers.Hypothesizing that the structure of Yarn segment in A zone on the low-twist spinning system is similar to that of ring-spun Yarns of a high twist without buckling, a hairiness model of such ring Yarns is beneficial to understand the origin of hairiness and wrapper fibers as well as the formation of neps. The number of all fiber ends in the out-most layer of ring-spun Yarn cross-section, which are already or have potentials to become hairs, is first defined as maximum hairiness in unit length of Yarn. Based on Brown and Ly's work on the number of fiber ends in twist-less fiber assembly, a statistical model of the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns has been established by considering Yarn twist geometry and the contributing surface layer for hairs. In particular, fiber length, fiber cross-section and the number of fibers have been revised with the consideration of Yarn twist. Moreover, Hairiness contribution factor (h0) is proposed for model development as the ratio of the number of fiber ends having potentials for hairiness and the total number of fiber ends in Yarn cross-section. From the developed model, it can be seen that the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns, or the number of long protruding fiber ends in A zone of the low-twist spinning system, relates to fiber length distribution, fiber diameter, Yarn count, Yarn twist,measured hair length etc. Moreover, the present model provides the length of the predicted maximum hairiness, whereas previous related models fail to do so. The verification by experiments demonstrates that the predicted values of 1mm and longer are in the same order of magnitude as the measured values, which are more accurate than the predicted values from other related models. Whereas, the predicted maximum hairiness of 3mm and longer, that is, the long protruding fiber ends, is almost 1~2 order of magnitude higher than the measured S3 values. Alternatively, there are some other ways to further reduce the number of long protruding fiber ends in A zone, like combining Siro-spinning or Solo-spinning with low-twist spinning, because it is generally believed that surface fiber trapping between the two substrands in Siro-spinning triangle or among several substrands in Solo-spinning triangle contributes to the significant decrease of Yarn hairiness. Accordingly, the maximum hairiness model of ring Yarns is revised for Siro-spun Yarns and Solo-spun Yarns with respect to fiber trapping and Yarn geometry, respectively. Also, experiments have been carried out to verify the developed hairiness models.As aforementioned before, the fiber security of the Yarn segment in A zone also influence the wrapper fiber formation and the resultant Yarn surface; and the degree of fiber ends being tucked into Yarn bodies directly determines the number of protruding hair of Yarns. Whereas, the existing related parameters only describe fiber ends already protruding out of Yarns. Similar to the theoretical limit of Yarn evenness CVlim, the real Yarn hairiness can approach but is always lower than the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns. A Relative Hairiness Index (RHI) is accordingly proposed, which has two forms:the theoretical one and the actual one. The theoretical RHI is the ratio of maximum hairiness of certain type of Yarn to the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns, which can theoretically reveal the effectiveness of different spinning methods in tucking fiber ends into Yarn bodies; and the so-called actual RHI is the ratio of the measured Yarn hairiness and the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns, which can actually demonstrate the degree of fiber ends potential for hairiness being tucked into Yarns resulted from various spinning system or their spinning parameters. Both the theoretical RHI and the actual RHI demonstrate that Siro-spinning can most effectively tuck fiber ends into Yarn bodies, therefore Siro-spun feeding will give rise to the least long protruding fiber ends. Additionally, winding is employed to mimic the abrasion that Yarn will experience, and it is found that the hairiness of ring Yarns obviously increases with the increasing winding times and reaches a plateau after the fourth winding, therefore the number of hairs of Yarns after four-time winding, is termed as stable hairiness. By analyzing the increment rate of the actual RHI of various Yarns in the states of cop, cone and stable, which are the Yarns experience zero-time, one-time and four-time winding, respectively, Siro-pun Yarns also present the best fiber security.Hence, Siro-spun feeding with a normal roving gap of 14mm is combined with the lately 5th version of low-twist spinning system for further reducing the wrapper fibers and improving the surface of low-twist Yarns. However, aiming at Yarn evenness and tenacity, as well as proper twists in A zone to avoid bulking as described before, the spinning parameters of 36Nm low-twist Yarns (36LT) is first systematically optimized by means of the combination of Fractional Factorial Methodology and Response Surface Methodology, respectively. With a twist multiplier reduced by around 15%, the optimized 36LT Yarns show comparable tenacity and similar hairiness, but still a bit worse evenness and more neps than the conventional Yarns. Actually, the number of neps (+140%) has been reduced about one order of magnitude on the present low-twist Yarns by comparing with that of Yarns produced on the previous versions of low-twist spinning system. The blackboard evenness of the optimized 36LT Yarns exhibits half grade lower than the conventional Yarns with a twist multiplier higher by about 15%, but half grade higher than the counterparts with the same level of twist multiplier, respectively. Then, the spinning parameters of 36Nm low-twist Yarns with double-roving feeding (36LT+Siro) are also optimized by using Response Surface Methodology. The tightly wrapped structures on the optimized 36LT Yarns only account for 8.9%, whereas the ones on the optimized 36LT+Siro Yarns even reduce to 5.8%.Moreover, nearly no tightly wrapped structures with a curved Yarn body are found on the two optimized Yarn surfaces. Therefore, the optimized spinning parameters of low-twist spinning system, as well as the incorporation of Siro-spinning not only facilitate the reduction of wrapper fibers on the resultant Yarns, but also provide suitable twists in A zone to avoid producing buckling and curved Yarn segments. Nevertheless, the optimized 36LT Yarn has an obviously higher actual RHI than the conventional ring Yarns, and it presents similar increment rate when enduring abrasion to that of its counterpart, which indicates that the optimized 36LT Yarns possess low fiber tucking and security, in other words, the fiber deformation resulted from false-twisting effect fails to be held in Yarns. But the actual RHI of the optimized 36LT+Siro Yarn and its increment rate by abrasion are markedly lower than the ones of the conventional Yarn, particularly, its increment rate is even similar to that of Solo-spun Yarns. It is demonstrated that the fiber tucking and security of low-twist Yarns can also be improved by integrating Siro-spinning system.Finally, using the Kawabata Evaluation System of Fabric (KES-F), the knitted fabrics made of the optimized 36LT Yarns are examined in terms of fabric surface property, tensile and shear, as well as bending and compression. There are no statistically significant differences in surface property,tensile, shear, bending, compression and bursting strength between the low-twist fabrics and the conventional fabrics made of the worsted Yarns with a higher twist multiplier by around 15% (at a significant level of 0.05). However, the low-twist fabric possesses better pilling performance and air permeability, but lower thermal conductivity than its counterpart. Besides, nearly no "bar effect" is found on the resultant fabrics made of the optimized 36LT Yarns.Institute of Textiles and ClothingPh.D., Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2016Doctorat

  • Surface characteristics of low-twist worsted Yarns and knitted fabrics
    The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2016
    Co-Authors: Huang Xinxi
    Abstract:

    PolyU Library Call No.: [THS] LG51 .H577P ITC 2016 Huangxxxii, 259 pages :color illustrationsWool apparel and other textile products are of high value and popularity in the market all the time because of their aesthetic quality and comfort. With the increasing demand of light, thin and comfortable knitted fabrics, it is desirable to have wool Yarns in medium to high counts with better Yarn evenness, less hairiness, soft handle and reasonable tenacity, etc. By literature review, ring spinning continues to predominate in worsted Yarn manufacturing industry because of its high quality of Yarns and good flexibility in materials and Yarn count. Many modifications have been conducted to enhance the control of fibers in spinning triangle and reduce Yarn hairs, but nearly have no improvement on Yarn soft handle and evenness. However,over ten years ago, a modified technology on the ring frame was developed by employing a false twisting device and a strand separator, which was named as Nu-torqueTM or low-torque or low-twist spinning. Since then, the technology has evolved in five versions. The low-twist cotton Yarns exceed other types of modified ring spun Yarns with respect to softer handle, lower residual torque, and outweigh the conventional ring Yarns in aspects of higher tenacity, lower hairiness, etc. Previous versions of low-twist worsted Yarn technology have produced low-twist worsted Yarns in median and coarse count, however, some problems were found such as worse Yarn optical evenness, more neps and tight wrapper fibers, as well as lower Yarn tenacity, among which, the wrapper fibers give rise to obvious "bar effect" on the dyed knitted wool fabrics. Hence, this thesis is aimed at investigating these problems and exploring possible solutions from both theoretical and practical points of views. The surface structure of 24Nm low-twist worsted Yarns are examined under Microscope Lecia M165 in details and classified into five types including three kinds of wrapping structures and two kinds of unwrapped structures. In particular, the tightly wrapping structures take up almost 60% on the low-twist Yarns. These tightly wrapping structures not only bring about quite Compact Yarn structures resulting in harsh handle of Yarns and fabrics,but also deteriorate Yarn optical evenness resulted from obviously smaller diameters than conventional Yarn structures and higher variations. Using high speed camera system, the formation of wrapper fibers on the low-twist Yarn surface has been investigated. It is found that the abrasion between Yarns or the protruding fiber ends and the upper false-twister or the lower false-twister, the fiber security of Yarns in A zone, as well as the false-twisting effects exerted by the two false-twisters, have effects on the wrapper fiber formation; more importantly, the wrapper fibers have roots in the long protruding fiber ends in A zone on the low-twist spinning system, namely, the hairiness of 3mm and longer of the Yarn segment between the spinning triangle and the false-twister. Besides, the bulked Yarn segment resulted from excessive twists in A zone is reckoned as the reason for the formation of the curved Yarns with tight wrapper fibers.Hypothesizing that the structure of Yarn segment in A zone on the low-twist spinning system is similar to that of ring-spun Yarns of a high twist without buckling, a hairiness model of such ring Yarns is beneficial to understand the origin of hairiness and wrapper fibers as well as the formation of neps. The number of all fiber ends in the out-most layer of ring-spun Yarn cross-section, which are already or have potentials to become hairs, is first defined as maximum hairiness in unit length of Yarn. Based on Brown and Ly's work on the number of fiber ends in twist-less fiber assembly, a statistical model of the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns has been established by considering Yarn twist geometry and the contributing surface layer for hairs. In particular, fiber length, fiber cross-section and the number of fibers have been revised with the consideration of Yarn twist. Moreover, Hairiness contribution factor (h0) is proposed for model development as the ratio of the number of fiber ends having potentials for hairiness and the total number of fiber ends in Yarn cross-section. From the developed model, it can be seen that the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns, or the number of long protruding fiber ends in A zone of the low-twist spinning system, relates to fiber length distribution, fiber diameter, Yarn count, Yarn twist,measured hair length etc. Moreover, the present model provides the length of the predicted maximum hairiness, whereas previous related models fail to do so. The verification by experiments demonstrates that the predicted values of 1mm and longer are in the same order of magnitude as the measured values, which are more accurate than the predicted values from other related models. Whereas, the predicted maximum hairiness of 3mm and longer, that is, the long protruding fiber ends, is almost 1~2 order of magnitude higher than the measured S3 values. Alternatively, there are some other ways to further reduce the number of long protruding fiber ends in A zone, like combining Siro-spinning or Solo-spinning with low-twist spinning, because it is generally believed that surface fiber trapping between the two substrands in Siro-spinning triangle or among several substrands in Solo-spinning triangle contributes to the significant decrease of Yarn hairiness. Accordingly, the maximum hairiness model of ring Yarns is revised for Siro-spun Yarns and Solo-spun Yarns with respect to fiber trapping and Yarn geometry, respectively. Also, experiments have been carried out to verify the developed hairiness models.As aforementioned before, the fiber security of the Yarn segment in A zone also influence the wrapper fiber formation and the resultant Yarn surface; and the degree of fiber ends being tucked into Yarn bodies directly determines the number of protruding hair of Yarns. Whereas, the existing related parameters only describe fiber ends already protruding out of Yarns. Similar to the theoretical limit of Yarn evenness CVlim, the real Yarn hairiness can approach but is always lower than the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns. A Relative Hairiness Index (RHI) is accordingly proposed, which has two forms:the theoretical one and the actual one. The theoretical RHI is the ratio of maximum hairiness of certain type of Yarn to the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns, which can theoretically reveal the effectiveness of different spinning methods in tucking fiber ends into Yarn bodies; and the so-called actual RHI is the ratio of the measured Yarn hairiness and the maximum hairiness of ring Yarns, which can actually demonstrate the degree of fiber ends potential for hairiness being tucked into Yarns resulted from various spinning system or their spinning parameters. Both the theoretical RHI and the actual RHI demonstrate that Siro-spinning can most effectively tuck fiber ends into Yarn bodies, therefore Siro-spun feeding will give rise to the least long protruding fiber ends. Additionally, winding is employed to mimic the abrasion that Yarn will experience, and it is found that the hairiness of ring Yarns obviously increases with the increasing winding times and reaches a plateau after the fourth winding, therefore the number of hairs of Yarns after four-time winding, is termed as stable hairiness. By analyzing the increment rate of the actual RHI of various Yarns in the states of cop, cone and stable, which are the Yarns experience zero-time, one-time and four-time winding, respectively, Siro-pun Yarns also present the best fiber security.Hence, Siro-spun feeding with a normal roving gap of 14mm is combined with the lately 5th version of low-twist spinning system for further reducing the wrapper fibers and improving the surface of low-twist Yarns. However, aiming at Yarn evenness and tenacity, as well as proper twists in A zone to avoid bulking as described before, the spinning parameters of 36Nm low-twist Yarns (36LT) is first systematically optimized by means of the combination of Fractional Factorial Methodology and Response Surface Methodology, respectively. With a twist multiplier reduced by around 15%, the optimized 36LT Yarns show comparable tenacity and similar hairiness, but still a bit worse evenness and more neps than the conventional Yarns. Actually, the number of neps (+140%) has been reduced about one order of magnitude on the present low-twist Yarns by comparing with that of Yarns produced on the previous versions of low-twist spinning system. The blackboard evenness of the optimized 36LT Yarns exhibits half grade lower than the conventional Yarns with a twist multiplier higher by about 15%, but half grade higher than the counterparts with the same level of twist multiplier, respectively. Then, the spinning parameters of 36Nm low-twist Yarns with double-roving feeding (36LT+Siro) are also optimized by using Response Surface Methodology. The tightly wrapped structures on the optimized 36LT Yarns only account for 8.9%, whereas the ones on the optimized 36LT+Siro Yarns even reduce to 5.8%.Moreover, nearly no tightly wrapped structures with a curved Yarn body are found on the two optimized Yarn surfaces. Therefore, the optimized spinning parameters of low-twist spinning system, as well as the incorporation of Siro-spinning not only facilitate the reduction of wrapper fibers on the resultant Yarns, but also provide suitable twists in A zone to avoid producing buckling and curved Yarn segments. Nevertheless, the optimized 36LT Yarn has an obviously higher actual RHI than the conventional ring Yarns, and it presents similar increment rate when enduring abrasion to that of its counterpart, which indicates that the optimized 36LT Yarns possess low fiber tucking and security, in other words, the fiber deformation resulted from false-twisting effect fails to be held in Yarns. But the actual RHI of the optimized 36LT+Siro Yarn and its increment rate by abrasion are markedly lower than the ones of the conventional Yarn, particularly, its increment rate is even similar to that of Solo-spun Yarns. It is demonstrated that the fiber tucking and security of low-twist Yarns can also be improved by integrating Siro-spinning system.Finally, using the Kawabata Evaluation System of Fabric (KES-F), the knitted fabrics made of the optimized 36LT Yarns are examined in terms of fabric surface property, tensile and shear, as well as bending and compression. There are no statistically significant differences in surface property,tensile, shear, bending, compression and bursting strength between the low-twist fabrics and the conventional fabrics made of the worsted Yarns with a higher twist multiplier by around 15% (at a significant level of 0.05). However, the low-twist fabric possesses better pilling performance and air permeability, but lower thermal conductivity than its counterpart. Besides, nearly no "bar effect" is found on the resultant fabrics made of the optimized 36LT Yarns.Institute of Textiles and ClothingPh.D., Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2016Doctoratepublished_fina