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Richard Miller - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • oily skin a review of treatment options
    The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 2017
    Co-Authors: Dawnielle C Endly, Richard Miller
    Abstract:

    : One of the most common dermatologic concerns is oily skin, and the demand for effective treatment options is ever apparent. This review article addresses numerous topical treatment options such as retinoids, olumacostat glasaretil, and various Cosmeceutical agents. several systemic and procedural techniques that incorporate isotretinoin, spironolactone, oral contraceptives, botulinum toxin, photodynamic therapy, and lasers are reviewed as well. Each treatment option is analyzed in terms of the proposed mechanism of action, efficacy reported in the literature, and potential adverse effects.

  • oily skin a review of treatment options
    The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 2017
    Co-Authors: Dawnielle C Endly, Richard Miller
    Abstract:

    : One of the most common dermatologic concerns is oily skin, and the demand for effective treatment options is ever apparent. This review article addresses numerous topical treatment options such as retinoids, olumacostat glasaretil, and various Cosmeceutical agents. several systemic and procedural techniques that incorporate isotretinoin, spironolactone, oral contraceptives, botulinum toxin, photodynamic therapy, and lasers are reviewed as well. Each treatment option is analyzed in terms of the proposed mechanism of action, efficacy reported in the literature, and potential adverse effects.

Oludemi Taofiq - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • hypericum genus Cosmeceutical application a decade comprehensive review on its multifunctional biological properties
    Industrial Crops and Products, 2021
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Ana Rita Silva, Lillian Barros
    Abstract:

    Abstract Hypericum is a genus of flowering plants and presents a nearly worldwide distribution. The relevance of its species is mainly based on the occurrence of specialised secondary metabolites exhibiting a wide range of pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical properties. The most well-reported species in the last decade is H. perforatum, together with its exceptional polycyclic polyprenylated acylphloroglucinols metabolites. Several inhibitory enzyme properties such as anti-tyrosinase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-collagenase, and anti-elastase, along with the relevant Cosmeceutical anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities, have been reported in numerous biological studies concerning this genus. From 2010 to date were published more than 3000 articles; therefore, an updated summary of Hypericum species and their related Cosmeceutical bioactive compounds is necessary. This detailed analysis will be mainly focused on Cosmeceutical-related bioactivity, phytochemical composition, and the products and processes that have been developed using the generated knowledge. Despite all the progress made in recent years, which contributed to a state-of-the-art improvement, only a few studies regarding the genus have been dedicated to investigating the mechanisms of action and the safety (toxicology) of its bioactive compounds using well-validated methodologies. A strategic partnership between R&D and vital Cosmeceutical enterprises could be the requisite to promote the development of a higher number of efficient and marketable Hypericum-derived Cosmeceutical products.

  • the role of bioactive compounds and other metabolites from mushrooms against skin disorders a systematic review assessing their Cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic outcomes
    Current Medicinal Chemistry, 2020
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira
    Abstract:

    Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as Cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of inflammatory skin diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin and correct hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as Cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and Cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

  • phenolic acids cinnamic acid and ergosterol as Cosmeceutical ingredients stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity
    Microchemical Journal, 2019
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Isabel Fernandes, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Maria Filomena Barreiro
    Abstract:

    Abstract The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The Cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in Cosmeceutical formulations.

  • agaricus blazei murrill from brazil an ingredient for nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical applications
    Food & Function, 2019
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Francisca Rodrigues, Rosane Marina Peralta, Beatriz M P P Oliveira
    Abstract:

    Operations for sorting mushrooms at the industrial level usually generate large amounts of bio-residues not conforming to strict morphological criteria for commercial purposes, even though their biological content is not compromised. In this context, the present work aimed at evaluating the potential for reutilizing industrially discarded Agaricus blazei Murill (ABM). Thus, the content of essential nutrients and the chemical composition were determined, and MTT and LDH assays were used to evaluate the viability and cell death of Caco-2 and HT29 cell lines of an ethanolic extract prepared from ABM (preliminary safety tests for nutraceutical applications). The extract was incorporated into a semi-solid base cosmetic cream and cell viability effects of the extract, and of the final cream formulation, on a keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) were studied (preliminary safety tests for Cosmeceutical applications). Essential nutrients, such as proteins and carbohydrates, and a low fat content were determined for ABM. Twenty-two fatty acids were detected, with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) (∼53%) being the most abundant fraction. The cell viabilities of Caco-2 and HT29 cells were maintained up to 100 μg mL−1. After incorporation into the base cream, a formulation with a pale yellow colour and favourable pH was obtained. The cell viability of HaCaT cells in the presence of the extract and the final cream formulation was maintained in a concentration dependent manner, which indicates the safety of this extract for Cosmeceutical applications. The results suggest that ABM residues can be used as an inexpensive and sustainable source of nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical ingredients.

  • mushroom based Cosmeceutical ingredients microencapsulation and in vitro release profile
    Industrial Crops and Products, 2018
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Isabel Fernandes, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Maria Filomena Barreiro
    Abstract:

    Abstract Mushrooms can be used as a source of Cosmeceutical ingredients. Agaricus bisporus and Pleurotus ostreatus ethanolic extracts present important bioactive properties, but with some compounds showing easy oxidation and degradation. In the present work, microencapsulation by atomization/coagulation technique was used to protect the extracts. The obtained microspheres were characterised in terms of morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency. Microencapsulated extracts were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance compared with the use of the free forms in terms of bioactivity, and in vitro release using the cosmetic matrix and real time conditions (up to 6 months). The physico-chemical properties (colour and pH) of the developed formulations were also monitored over the same time period. The Cosmeceutical formulations containing free extracts displayed bioactivity. For the formulations prepared with the encapsulated forms, the release of the extracts was achieved and anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities were observed, while for the antioxidant activity, the extract release over the time was not sufficient to exert an effect. Overall, the use of mushroom extracts in free or encapsulated forms can be an option in Cosmeceutical formulations, and the encapsulated forms can allow a controlled release leading to bioactivity control.

Dawnielle C Endly - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • oily skin a review of treatment options
    The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 2017
    Co-Authors: Dawnielle C Endly, Richard Miller
    Abstract:

    : One of the most common dermatologic concerns is oily skin, and the demand for effective treatment options is ever apparent. This review article addresses numerous topical treatment options such as retinoids, olumacostat glasaretil, and various Cosmeceutical agents. several systemic and procedural techniques that incorporate isotretinoin, spironolactone, oral contraceptives, botulinum toxin, photodynamic therapy, and lasers are reviewed as well. Each treatment option is analyzed in terms of the proposed mechanism of action, efficacy reported in the literature, and potential adverse effects.

  • oily skin a review of treatment options
    The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 2017
    Co-Authors: Dawnielle C Endly, Richard Miller
    Abstract:

    : One of the most common dermatologic concerns is oily skin, and the demand for effective treatment options is ever apparent. This review article addresses numerous topical treatment options such as retinoids, olumacostat glasaretil, and various Cosmeceutical agents. several systemic and procedural techniques that incorporate isotretinoin, spironolactone, oral contraceptives, botulinum toxin, photodynamic therapy, and lasers are reviewed as well. Each treatment option is analyzed in terms of the proposed mechanism of action, efficacy reported in the literature, and potential adverse effects.

Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • hypericum genus Cosmeceutical application a decade comprehensive review on its multifunctional biological properties
    Industrial Crops and Products, 2021
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Ana Rita Silva, Lillian Barros
    Abstract:

    Abstract Hypericum is a genus of flowering plants and presents a nearly worldwide distribution. The relevance of its species is mainly based on the occurrence of specialised secondary metabolites exhibiting a wide range of pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical properties. The most well-reported species in the last decade is H. perforatum, together with its exceptional polycyclic polyprenylated acylphloroglucinols metabolites. Several inhibitory enzyme properties such as anti-tyrosinase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-collagenase, and anti-elastase, along with the relevant Cosmeceutical anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities, have been reported in numerous biological studies concerning this genus. From 2010 to date were published more than 3000 articles; therefore, an updated summary of Hypericum species and their related Cosmeceutical bioactive compounds is necessary. This detailed analysis will be mainly focused on Cosmeceutical-related bioactivity, phytochemical composition, and the products and processes that have been developed using the generated knowledge. Despite all the progress made in recent years, which contributed to a state-of-the-art improvement, only a few studies regarding the genus have been dedicated to investigating the mechanisms of action and the safety (toxicology) of its bioactive compounds using well-validated methodologies. A strategic partnership between R&D and vital Cosmeceutical enterprises could be the requisite to promote the development of a higher number of efficient and marketable Hypericum-derived Cosmeceutical products.

  • the role of bioactive compounds and other metabolites from mushrooms against skin disorders a systematic review assessing their Cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic outcomes
    Current Medicinal Chemistry, 2020
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira
    Abstract:

    Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as Cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of inflammatory skin diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin and correct hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as Cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and Cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

  • phenolic acids cinnamic acid and ergosterol as Cosmeceutical ingredients stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity
    Microchemical Journal, 2019
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Isabel Fernandes, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Maria Filomena Barreiro
    Abstract:

    Abstract The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The Cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in Cosmeceutical formulations.

  • agaricus blazei murrill from brazil an ingredient for nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical applications
    Food & Function, 2019
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Francisca Rodrigues, Rosane Marina Peralta, Beatriz M P P Oliveira
    Abstract:

    Operations for sorting mushrooms at the industrial level usually generate large amounts of bio-residues not conforming to strict morphological criteria for commercial purposes, even though their biological content is not compromised. In this context, the present work aimed at evaluating the potential for reutilizing industrially discarded Agaricus blazei Murill (ABM). Thus, the content of essential nutrients and the chemical composition were determined, and MTT and LDH assays were used to evaluate the viability and cell death of Caco-2 and HT29 cell lines of an ethanolic extract prepared from ABM (preliminary safety tests for nutraceutical applications). The extract was incorporated into a semi-solid base cosmetic cream and cell viability effects of the extract, and of the final cream formulation, on a keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) were studied (preliminary safety tests for Cosmeceutical applications). Essential nutrients, such as proteins and carbohydrates, and a low fat content were determined for ABM. Twenty-two fatty acids were detected, with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) (∼53%) being the most abundant fraction. The cell viabilities of Caco-2 and HT29 cells were maintained up to 100 μg mL−1. After incorporation into the base cream, a formulation with a pale yellow colour and favourable pH was obtained. The cell viability of HaCaT cells in the presence of the extract and the final cream formulation was maintained in a concentration dependent manner, which indicates the safety of this extract for Cosmeceutical applications. The results suggest that ABM residues can be used as an inexpensive and sustainable source of nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical ingredients.

  • mushroom based Cosmeceutical ingredients microencapsulation and in vitro release profile
    Industrial Crops and Products, 2018
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Isabel Fernandes, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Maria Filomena Barreiro
    Abstract:

    Abstract Mushrooms can be used as a source of Cosmeceutical ingredients. Agaricus bisporus and Pleurotus ostreatus ethanolic extracts present important bioactive properties, but with some compounds showing easy oxidation and degradation. In the present work, microencapsulation by atomization/coagulation technique was used to protect the extracts. The obtained microspheres were characterised in terms of morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency. Microencapsulated extracts were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance compared with the use of the free forms in terms of bioactivity, and in vitro release using the cosmetic matrix and real time conditions (up to 6 months). The physico-chemical properties (colour and pH) of the developed formulations were also monitored over the same time period. The Cosmeceutical formulations containing free extracts displayed bioactivity. For the formulations prepared with the encapsulated forms, the release of the extracts was achieved and anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities were observed, while for the antioxidant activity, the extract release over the time was not sufficient to exert an effect. Overall, the use of mushroom extracts in free or encapsulated forms can be an option in Cosmeceutical formulations, and the encapsulated forms can allow a controlled release leading to bioactivity control.

Lillian Barros - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • hypericum genus Cosmeceutical application a decade comprehensive review on its multifunctional biological properties
    Industrial Crops and Products, 2021
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Ana Rita Silva, Lillian Barros
    Abstract:

    Abstract Hypericum is a genus of flowering plants and presents a nearly worldwide distribution. The relevance of its species is mainly based on the occurrence of specialised secondary metabolites exhibiting a wide range of pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical properties. The most well-reported species in the last decade is H. perforatum, together with its exceptional polycyclic polyprenylated acylphloroglucinols metabolites. Several inhibitory enzyme properties such as anti-tyrosinase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-collagenase, and anti-elastase, along with the relevant Cosmeceutical anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities, have been reported in numerous biological studies concerning this genus. From 2010 to date were published more than 3000 articles; therefore, an updated summary of Hypericum species and their related Cosmeceutical bioactive compounds is necessary. This detailed analysis will be mainly focused on Cosmeceutical-related bioactivity, phytochemical composition, and the products and processes that have been developed using the generated knowledge. Despite all the progress made in recent years, which contributed to a state-of-the-art improvement, only a few studies regarding the genus have been dedicated to investigating the mechanisms of action and the safety (toxicology) of its bioactive compounds using well-validated methodologies. A strategic partnership between R&D and vital Cosmeceutical enterprises could be the requisite to promote the development of a higher number of efficient and marketable Hypericum-derived Cosmeceutical products.

  • phenolic acids cinnamic acid and ergosterol as Cosmeceutical ingredients stabilization by microencapsulation to ensure sustained bioactivity
    Microchemical Journal, 2019
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Isabel Fernandes, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Maria Filomena Barreiro
    Abstract:

    Abstract The global cosmetic industry is constantly searching for new ingredients with multifunctional properties. In this context, phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, p-coumaric, and protocatechuic acids), cinnamic acid and ergosterol were evaluated for their anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities, and thereafter microencapsulated by the atomization/coagulation technique. After characterization (morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency), the microencapsulated compounds were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance evaluated comparatively with the use of the free forms. The Cosmeceutical formulations were checked regarding the presence of the bioactive compounds by HPLC-DAD, and for their physicochemical properties (colour and pH). The obtained results demonstrated the anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities of the individual compounds that, after incorporation, have shown a decreasing pattern along time. On the contrary, the formulations incorporating the microencapsulated bioactive compounds gave rise to a gradual release, ensuring bioactivity maintenance. These results underline the advantage of using microencapsulation to preserve and ensure the controlled release of bioactive species in Cosmeceutical formulations.

  • agaricus blazei murrill from brazil an ingredient for nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical applications
    Food & Function, 2019
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Francisca Rodrigues, Rosane Marina Peralta, Beatriz M P P Oliveira
    Abstract:

    Operations for sorting mushrooms at the industrial level usually generate large amounts of bio-residues not conforming to strict morphological criteria for commercial purposes, even though their biological content is not compromised. In this context, the present work aimed at evaluating the potential for reutilizing industrially discarded Agaricus blazei Murill (ABM). Thus, the content of essential nutrients and the chemical composition were determined, and MTT and LDH assays were used to evaluate the viability and cell death of Caco-2 and HT29 cell lines of an ethanolic extract prepared from ABM (preliminary safety tests for nutraceutical applications). The extract was incorporated into a semi-solid base cosmetic cream and cell viability effects of the extract, and of the final cream formulation, on a keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) were studied (preliminary safety tests for Cosmeceutical applications). Essential nutrients, such as proteins and carbohydrates, and a low fat content were determined for ABM. Twenty-two fatty acids were detected, with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) (∼53%) being the most abundant fraction. The cell viabilities of Caco-2 and HT29 cells were maintained up to 100 μg mL−1. After incorporation into the base cream, a formulation with a pale yellow colour and favourable pH was obtained. The cell viability of HaCaT cells in the presence of the extract and the final cream formulation was maintained in a concentration dependent manner, which indicates the safety of this extract for Cosmeceutical applications. The results suggest that ABM residues can be used as an inexpensive and sustainable source of nutraceutical and Cosmeceutical ingredients.

  • mushroom based Cosmeceutical ingredients microencapsulation and in vitro release profile
    Industrial Crops and Products, 2018
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Isabel Fernandes, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira, Maria Filomena Barreiro
    Abstract:

    Abstract Mushrooms can be used as a source of Cosmeceutical ingredients. Agaricus bisporus and Pleurotus ostreatus ethanolic extracts present important bioactive properties, but with some compounds showing easy oxidation and degradation. In the present work, microencapsulation by atomization/coagulation technique was used to protect the extracts. The obtained microspheres were characterised in terms of morphology, particle size distribution and encapsulation efficiency. Microencapsulated extracts were incorporated into a semi-solid base cream and their performance compared with the use of the free forms in terms of bioactivity, and in vitro release using the cosmetic matrix and real time conditions (up to 6 months). The physico-chemical properties (colour and pH) of the developed formulations were also monitored over the same time period. The Cosmeceutical formulations containing free extracts displayed bioactivity. For the formulations prepared with the encapsulated forms, the release of the extracts was achieved and anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities were observed, while for the antioxidant activity, the extract release over the time was not sufficient to exert an effect. Overall, the use of mushroom extracts in free or encapsulated forms can be an option in Cosmeceutical formulations, and the encapsulated forms can allow a controlled release leading to bioactivity control.

  • development of mushroom based Cosmeceutical formulations with anti inflammatory anti tyrosinase antioxidant and antibacterial properties
    Molecules, 2016
    Co-Authors: Oludemi Taofiq, Ana M Gonzalezparamas, Maria José Alves, Ricardo C. Calhelha, Maria Filomena Barreiro, Sandrina A. Heleno, Lillian Barros, Isabel C.f.r. Ferreira
    Abstract:

    The cosmetic industry is in a constant search for natural compounds or extracts with relevant bioactive properties, which became valuable ingredients to design Cosmeceutical formulations. Mushrooms have been markedly studied in terms of nutritional value and medicinal properties. However, there is still slow progress in the biotechnological application of mushroom extracts in cosmetic formulations, either as antioxidants, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agents or as hyperpigmentation correctors. In the present work, the Cosmeceutical potential of ethanolic extracts prepared from Agaricus bisporus, Pleurotus ostreatus, and Lentinula edodes was analyzed in terms of anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities. The extracts were characterized in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol composition, and further incorporated in a base cosmetic cream to achieve the same bioactive purposes. From the results obtained, the final Cosmeceutical formulations presented 85%-100% of the phenolic acids and ergosterol levels found in the mushroom extracts, suggesting that there was no significant loss of bioactive compounds. The final Cosmeceutical formulation also displayed all the ascribed bioactivities and as such, mushrooms can further be exploited as natural Cosmeceutical ingredients.