Fabric Handle

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Ayşe Okur - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Effect of yarn characteristics on surface properties of knitted Fabrics
    Textile Research Journal, 2018
    Co-Authors: Gonca Balci Kilic, Ayşe Okur
    Abstract:

    Fabric surface properties are significant in terms of Fabric Handle, sensorial comfort, aesthetic and performance properties. Yarn properties are among the most important parameters that affect fab...

  • Objective Evaluation of Fabric Handle by Simple Measurement Methods
    Textile Research Journal, 2008
    Co-Authors: Vildan Sülar, Ayşe Okur
    Abstract:

    In this study, objective and subjective evaluations of Fabrics were made to predict Fabric Handle in a simple way. The aim of this research was to select a suitable form of regression model and predict total Handle value with a minimum number of parameters to make a practical approach by using simple laboratory measurements. For this purpose, a wide database of 71 worsted men's suitings was prepared by making subjective and objective evaluations. Subjective tests of primary Handle attributes (softness-stiffness, thickness-thinness, and roughness-smoothness) and total Handle were evaluated by an expert jury consisting of 18 members, and a subjective total Handle value was also calculated using these data. Objective measurements consisted of Fabric tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties, and pulling through a nozzle tests. A new surface roughness tester was used for measuring surface properties, and it was found that these roughness results might be useful for Fabric Handle prediction. ...

  • Handle Evaluation of Men's Suitings Produced in Turkey
    Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2008
    Co-Authors: Vildan Sülar, Ayşe Okur
    Abstract:

    This article explains subjective evaluation techniques for stiffness, thickness and smoothness, which are the components of Handle of suitings, and subjective assessments using these techniques. Another objective of this research was to study the Fabric Handle of worsted suitings produced in Turkey. For this purpose a preliminary study was made to determine the words to define Fabric attributes used in Turkey. Thickness, stiffness and smoothness were chosen as the components of the Fabric Handle of worsted men’s suitings. Subjective assessment techniques were developed to assess the chosen attributes. These techniques were applied to 73 Fabric samples with the help of an expert jury. The concordances of the subjective test results were investigated by the Kendall concordance test and correlation analyses were carried out to examine the relations between the subjective test results. The assessment of the Fabrics by the jury using the techniques was in good agreement. A total Handle of 100% wool and wool/polyester blend worsted men’s suitings produced in Turkey has a grade of 3.47 on a five-point rating scale. A database was prepared for the Handle of worsted men’s suitings produced in Turkey.

  • SENSORY EVALUATION METHODS FOR TACTILE PROPERTIES OF FabricS
    Journal of Sensory Studies, 2007
    Co-Authors: Vildan Sülar, Ayşe Okur
    Abstract:

    Sensory evaluation of tactile properties of Fabrics is a subject many researchers have studied for years and which still has importance and is also open to improvements. Particularly for suitings, the sensory evaluation of Fabric Handle or of other tactile properties has a greater importance. This article explains sensory evaluation techniques for stiffness, thickness and smoothness, which are the components of Fabric Handle of suitings. These sensory techniques are introduced by the authors and studied in 100% worsted wool suitings. The concordances of sensory test results are investigated by Kendall's concordance test, and correlation analyses are carried out to examine the relations between sensory results.

H. Wang - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Prediction of the Handle characteristics of lightweight next-to-skin knitted Fabrics using a Fabric extraction technique
    Journal of The Textile Institute, 2012
    Co-Authors: H. Wang, T. J. Mahar, Russell Hall
    Abstract:

    By testing Fabric extraction properties, the PhabrOmeter Fabric Evaluation System offers the potential for routine objective evaluation of Fabric Handle. In this paper, a series of simple linear models has been developed using Fabric extraction curve data for a series of lightweight next-to-skin knitted wool Fabrics. These models predict eight Fabric Handle characteristics: overall Handle, rough–smooth, hard–soft, loose–tight, heavy–light, hairy–clean, warm–cool and greasy–dry. The models were validated using an independent set of Fabrics. The prediction precision of the models is significantly better than the precision of an experienced individual assessor.

  • Measuring Fabric Handle to define luxury: an overview of Handle specification in next-to-skin knitted Fabrics from Merino wool
    Animal Production Science, 2010
    Co-Authors: T. J. Mahar, H. Wang
    Abstract:

    An examination is presented of the relevance of luxury to the wool textile and garment supply chain. This examination leads to a review of the concept and importance of Fabric Handle as a means of defining important aspects of Fabric quality. Examples are given for woven Fabrics of the general relationships between subjectively assessed Fabric Handle attributes such as Fabric softness and smoothness and measured low stress, generally high deformation, Fabric properties such as Fabric bending rigidity and extensibility. A brief overview is presented of the development of a system for predicting a set of subjectively assessed Handle attributes for next-to-skin knitted Fabrics from measurable Fabric properties. Seven Handle attributes selected by experienced assessors as being important for defining tactile sensations associated with next-to-skin knitted Fabrics were: Fabric smoothness, hairiness, softness, tightness, dryness, warmth and weight. Subjective assessments on a 1–10 scale of these seven attributes, plus an assessment of overall Handle, were conducted by 12 experienced assessors on 74 next-to-skin knitted Fabrics. The precision of the mean assessment of the 12 assessors ranged between 0.8 and 1.1, indicating that there was sufficient consensus on key Fabric Handle assessments to justify development of a method for predicting them from measurements of the physical properties of Fabrics. All Fabrics were tested using the PhabrOmeter Fabric evaluation system, which records the force exerted during insertion of a Fabric into and through an orifice. Geometric parameters were derived to describe the PhabrOmeter force-displacement curve results, and statistical models were developed to predict the average Handle assessments of the 12 assessors. The precision of the models in predicting the Handle intensities of eight Fabric attributes on an independent validation set of 22 Fabrics was significantly better than the precision of an individual assessor (confidence limits = 1.4–2.6 and 2.5–3.8, for predicted and assessed ratings, respectively). A case is made that this technology has the potential to assist in the growth of new markets for Merino wool products.

Xungai Wang - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Use of low‐level plasma for enhancing the shrink resistance of wool Fabric treated with a silicone polymer
    Journal of the Textile Institute, 2011
    Co-Authors: Maryam Naebe, Peter G. Cookson, Ron Denning, Xungai Wang
    Abstract:

    This study examines the effects of an atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) pre‐treatment on the shrink resistance of wool Fabric treated subsequently, by the pad/dry method, with an aqueous emulsion of the amino‐functional polydimethylsiloxane, SM 8709. Optimal shrink resistance (with no impairment of Fabric Handle) was obtained after a low‐level plasma treatment (1–3 s exposure time), using 5% of the polymer emulsion. Higher levels of silicone polymer could be used to achieve shrink resistance in the absence of a plasma pre‐treatment, but the Fabric Handle would be adversely affected. X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) studies showed that the bulk of the covalently bound surface lipid layer was removed after a plasma exposure time of 30 s. For treatment times of 3 s or less, however, the removal was incomplete, suggesting that optimum shrink resistance (after treatment with the silicone polymer) was associated with the modification of the surface layer rather than its complete destruction. Scanning elec...

  • A correlation study of subjective sensorial evaluation and objective softness measurement of wool Fabrics
    2010
    Co-Authors: Ana Cristina Broega, Lijing Wang, M. Elisabete Cabco-silva, Xungai Wang
    Abstract:

    Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing, especially for next-to-skin garments such as shirts and trousers for summer. Sensorial comfort has a strong relationship with both the mechanical and surface properties of apparel Fabric. A comfortable textile material should have properties of softness, smooth surface or texture, be pleasant to touch and very flexible. When assessing Fabric Handle subjectively, the assessor usually strokes the Fabric surface with one or several fingers and squash the Fabric gently in hand. Thus, the perception of such Handle includes complex parameters of compression, tactile sensation and textural effect. In this work, we attempted to use a simple technique of objectively evaluating Fabric softness related properties, by measuring the force required to pull a Fabric strip through a series of parallel pins (the pulling force). We also subjectively rated the Fabric Handle. The correlation analysis showed very good agreement between the Fabric pulling force and subjective hand rating.

  • Photochromic Fabrics with improved durability and photochromic performance
    Fibers and Polymers, 2008
    Co-Authors: Tong Cheng, Tong Lin, Rex Brady, Xungai Wang
    Abstract:

    Previously, we have reported a method for producing photochromic wool Fabric by applying a thin layer of hybrid silica-photochromic dye onto the wool surface. While the photochromic coating showed a very fast optical response and had little influence on the Fabric Handle, its durability was poor. In this study, the durability of the photochromic coating layer was improved by introducing epoxy groups into the silica matrix via co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of an alkyl trialkoxysilane compound (ATAS) and 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GPTMS). The presence of epoxy groups in the silica enhanced both washing and abrasion durability or fastness. In addition, the optical response speed was slightly increased as well. Effects of the type of alkyl silane and the GPTMS/alkyl silane ratio on the coating durability, Fabric Handle and optical response were examined.

  • Fast response photochromic textiles from hybrid silica surface coating
    Fibers and Polymers, 2008
    Co-Authors: Tong Cheng, Tong Lin, Rex Brady, Xungai Wang
    Abstract:

    In this study, a hybrid silica sol-gel embedded with a photochromic dye has been applied to wool Fabric to form a photochromic coating. The treated wool Fabrics showed very quick photochromic response. Five different silanes have been used as the silica precursor, and the resultant coating showed slight differences in photochromic performance, Fabric washing fastness, and surface hydrophilicity. However, the silica type had a considerable influence on Fabric Handle property. The silica matrix from the silane containing a long alkyl chain had a very little influence on the Fabric Handle and better photochromic performance than those from other different silane precursors.

  • Photochromic wool Fabrics with enhanced durability and photochromic performance
    Advances in Science and Technology, 2008
    Co-Authors: Tong Lin, Tong Cheng, Rex Brady, Xungai Wang
    Abstract:

    In our previous work, we have produced a photochromic wool Fabric by applying a thin layer of hybrid silica-photochromic dye onto the wool surface. The coating showed a very fast optical response, but had little influence on the Fabric Handle, however durability was low. In this context, we reported that durability of the hybrid layer can be improved by introducing epoxy groups into the silica matrix via co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of an alkyl trialkoxysilane (ATAS) and 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GPTMS). The presence of epoxy groups in the silica enhanced both washing and abrasion durabilities. Also, the optical response speed was slightly increased as well. Effects of the type of alkyl silane and the GPTMS:alkyl silane ratio on the coating durability, Fabric Handle and optical response were examined.

Mitsuo Matsudaira - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Relationship between Various Chemical Treatments on the Mechanical, Anti-Felting and Dyeing Properties of Wool
    Advanced Materials Research, 2012
    Co-Authors: Masukuni Mori, Mitsuo Matsudaira
    Abstract:

    Wool fibers have higher elasticity than synthetic fibers, and are superior in the properties of vapor absorption and desorption. However, the only fault of wool is its felting propensity during home laundering. Although various anti-felting treatments to reduce the felting property have been developed and used industrially, there are still problems such as environmental issues and changes of Fabric Handle. These issues were studied in this paper. The effect of DCCA, NaOCl and plasma treatments on anti-felting property, Fabric Handle, yellowing, color intensity and hydrophilicity were especially investigated. It is concluded that NaOCl method is the best treatment in the points of anti-felting, Fabric Handle, yellowing and color intensity.

  • Effects of weave density, yarn twist and yarn count on Fabric Handle of polyester woven Fabrics by objective evaluation method
    Journal of the Textile Institute, 2009
    Co-Authors: Mitsuo Matsudaira, K. Nakano, Y. Yamazaki, Yoshiteru Hayashi, Osamu Hayashi
    Abstract:

    Systematic research works were carried out to clarify the effects of weave density, yarn twist, and yarn count on Fabric Handle of polyester Fabrics made for the purpose, and quantitative influence was clearly shown. “Kosh” and “hari” increase with weft yarn density and “shinayakasa” and “shari” decrease with the density. The effect of the density on “fukurami” and “kishimi” is small. The effect of yarn twist is revealed remarkably on dechine and yoryu. “Koshi” and “hari” decrease and “shinayakasa” and “shari” increase with the twist in the case of dechine; however, all the primary Handles increase a little with the twist for yoryu. “Kishimi” of yoryu increases greatly with the twist. “Koshi” and “hari” increase and “shinayakasa” decreases with yarn count for taffeta and georgette. The effect of the count on “fukurami” and “kishimi” is small for both Fabrics. These results could provide useful information to design ideal Fabrics having desirable Handle.

  • The Effect of Weave Density on Fabric Handle and Appearance of Men's Suit Fabrics
    Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 2007
    Co-Authors: Masukuni Mori, Mitsuo Matsudaira
    Abstract:

    Optimum selection of materials and adequate weave structure fitted for end-users are very important for comfortable, sophisticated and fashionable clothes. The optimum theoretical weave density is well-known and used practically depending on yarn property; however, wearing comfortability and beautiful appearance of weaves are not studied precisely in the literature yet. These features are considered to be made at the finishing stages of the weave manufacturing process in general; however, the main part of physical properties of Fabrics seem to have been determined by their weave structure. In this study, warp yarn density was changed for men's suit Fabrics and the effect of weave density on Fabric Handle, heat and water transfer property, appearance of clothes, wrinkle resistance, and color brightness are examined. The total hand value (THV) showed the highest at similar density of warp and weft yarn. The total appearance value (TAV) decreased when warp and weft yarn density was smaller. Wrinkle resistance was high in the condition of the maximum warp and weft yarn density. This paper contributes to the development of a fundamental database of designing ideal Fabrics.

  • Fabric Handle and Its Basic Mechanical Properties
    Journal of Textile Engineering, 2006
    Co-Authors: Mitsuo Matsudaira
    Abstract:

    Published research works concerning Fabric Handle and its basic mechanical properties were surveyed in this review. Fabric Handle and its mechanical properties have been studied continuously using KES system for various kinds of Fabrics in the period between 1998 and 2005. Statistical investigation by neural network model has been very popular in these years and the accuracy of prediction is higher than that of conventional regression methods. Some novel works concerning Fabric sound have also been reported. Quite a lot of works concerning drape behavior of Fabrics, seam puckering, wrinkles and pillings have been carried out by using image processing system. In order to evaluate clothing comfort objectively, clothing pressure to human body is investigated precisely.

  • The Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of Polyester-fibre ‘Shingosen’ Fabrics
    Journal of the Textile Institute, 1994
    Co-Authors: Mitsuo Matsudaira
    Abstract:

    Features of the mechanical properties and Fabric Handle of polyester-fibre ‘Shingosen’ Fabrics are studied precisely by the objective-evaluation method of Fabric Handle. The distinctive features are clearly shown for each ‘Shingosen’ type, classified conventionally as: New Silky, Peach Face, Rayon Touch, and New Worsted Fabrics, which were produced more recently (1991–92). A new classification based on the main technique for producing ‘Shingosen’ Fabrics is proposed as: Contractile Fibers, Irregular Shapes, Yarn Processing, and Ultra-fine Fibres groups. It is shown clearly that the Irregular Shapes group corresponds well lo the New Silky type and that the Yarn Processing group corresponds to the New Worsted type. Three independent types of primary Handle, FUKURAMI, HARI, and SHARI, were selected for ‘Shingosen’ Fabrics by cluster analysis, and the corresponding three Fabric groups, FUKURAMI group (high FUKURAMI), HARI group (high HARI), and SIHNAYAKASA group (low SHARI), are defined. ‘Shin-Shingosen’ fabr...

T. J. Mahar - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Prediction of the Handle characteristics of lightweight next-to-skin knitted Fabrics using a Fabric extraction technique
    Journal of The Textile Institute, 2012
    Co-Authors: H. Wang, T. J. Mahar, Russell Hall
    Abstract:

    By testing Fabric extraction properties, the PhabrOmeter Fabric Evaluation System offers the potential for routine objective evaluation of Fabric Handle. In this paper, a series of simple linear models has been developed using Fabric extraction curve data for a series of lightweight next-to-skin knitted wool Fabrics. These models predict eight Fabric Handle characteristics: overall Handle, rough–smooth, hard–soft, loose–tight, heavy–light, hairy–clean, warm–cool and greasy–dry. The models were validated using an independent set of Fabrics. The prediction precision of the models is significantly better than the precision of an experienced individual assessor.

  • Measuring Fabric Handle to define luxury: an overview of Handle specification in next-to-skin knitted Fabrics from Merino wool
    Animal Production Science, 2010
    Co-Authors: T. J. Mahar, H. Wang
    Abstract:

    An examination is presented of the relevance of luxury to the wool textile and garment supply chain. This examination leads to a review of the concept and importance of Fabric Handle as a means of defining important aspects of Fabric quality. Examples are given for woven Fabrics of the general relationships between subjectively assessed Fabric Handle attributes such as Fabric softness and smoothness and measured low stress, generally high deformation, Fabric properties such as Fabric bending rigidity and extensibility. A brief overview is presented of the development of a system for predicting a set of subjectively assessed Handle attributes for next-to-skin knitted Fabrics from measurable Fabric properties. Seven Handle attributes selected by experienced assessors as being important for defining tactile sensations associated with next-to-skin knitted Fabrics were: Fabric smoothness, hairiness, softness, tightness, dryness, warmth and weight. Subjective assessments on a 1–10 scale of these seven attributes, plus an assessment of overall Handle, were conducted by 12 experienced assessors on 74 next-to-skin knitted Fabrics. The precision of the mean assessment of the 12 assessors ranged between 0.8 and 1.1, indicating that there was sufficient consensus on key Fabric Handle assessments to justify development of a method for predicting them from measurements of the physical properties of Fabrics. All Fabrics were tested using the PhabrOmeter Fabric evaluation system, which records the force exerted during insertion of a Fabric into and through an orifice. Geometric parameters were derived to describe the PhabrOmeter force-displacement curve results, and statistical models were developed to predict the average Handle assessments of the 12 assessors. The precision of the models in predicting the Handle intensities of eight Fabric attributes on an independent validation set of 22 Fabrics was significantly better than the precision of an individual assessor (confidence limits = 1.4–2.6 and 2.5–3.8, for predicted and assessed ratings, respectively). A case is made that this technology has the potential to assist in the growth of new markets for Merino wool products.