The Experts below are selected from a list of 99 Experts worldwide ranked by ideXlab platform
Tracy Diane Cassidy - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Knitwear Design Technology
Textile and Clothing Design Technology, 2017Co-Authors: Tracy Diane CassidyAbstract:In this chapter we begin by rationalising the importance of design and technological knowledge for knitwear specialists and briefly discuss the growth of the knitwear industry; an industry sector that was revolutionised by influential designers at particular times during the 20th century, and has continued to be an important sector of today’s fashion and textiles industry. We introduce the processes of machine produced knitwear with a brief discussion of circular knit and flatbed fabric production which leads to the characteristics of knitted fabrics and making-up technologies before outlining the four garment production types: • Fully cut or cut & sew • Cut stitch shaped • Fully fashioned • Integral Knitting and new full garment technology We discuss and demonstrate how to recognise the key garment production methods integrating basic knit-garment styles and design features (hems, necklines, sleeve shapes and fastenings including button-holing) relating these where relevant to trends. Garment specifications and sample garments (prototypes) are discussed and further production techniques and technologies are given associated with garment finishing plus a mock-factory layout is provided. Computer-aided design (CAD) is briefly made reference to and the stitch manipulation types used to create a range of knit fabrics are described. To conclude, the chapter highlights trend forecast sources specific to knitwear. While knit fabrics can be used for a number of garment types such as t-shirts and undergarments, as well as popular accessories such as hats, scarves, gloves and socks, this chapter focuses on the type of garments more generally associated with the term knitwear which includes sweaters, cardigans, knitted dresses, skirts and outer-wear. Some retailers refer to cardigans and sweaters as jersey wear due to the basic stitch type of the fabric. Traditionally knit textbooks either focus only on design, or on technology, or they discuss the two as separate entities making it difficult to appreciate how they work together and how they are dependent on each other. All knit specialists, be they designers or technologists, require a sound understanding of fibres, yarns, dyeing and finishing that can be found in other chapters in this book. Such knowledge is essential for all fashion and textile professionals. In order to connect design and technology in the context of knitwear the topics in this chapter combine the technicalities and the practicalities of knitwear production for a more fully integrated design technology approach to the understanding of this subject.
Daniel Ekwall - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Production and business methods in the Integral Knitting supply chain
Autex Research Journal, 2007Co-Authors: Joel Peterson, Daniel EkwallAbstract:Over the last 20 years there has been a dramatic technical development of machines and software in the production of knitted fashion garments. This development has made it possible to rationalise design and production of knitted garments so that today it is possible to make a knitted garment, almost ready made, directly in the Knitting machine, with a minimum of processes, such as cutting and sewing. The objective of this paper is to explain and give examples of how this new Knitting production technology could be implemented in a fast fashion logistic system. The method for this paper is an inductive approach based on a literature survey. The new technical achievements have not meant the great breakthrough that was expected. Why? Many companies moved their production to development countries where the costs ofproduction, mainly labour costs are lower than in western countries. Another reason is that it is not enough to invest in new machinery and then use the machines in the same production system as before. To gain the benefits of this technique the production processes in the company have to be changed and adapted to these new conditions. The lack of knowledge in supply chain design and a one-sided perspective on production costs, instead of a customer orientated one, is one explanation. This, in a business (fashion) where the demand is changing dayby-day and the short time to market is vital to a company’s ability to be competitive. This article describes the Integral and complete garment Knitting techniques and the advantages that they open up, both from a logistics and a technical point of view. An Integral knitted whole garment technology, implemented and adjusted to the production and business system in a company, can reduce lead times dramatically and respond quickly to the rapidly changing fashion market.
Alysha Joy Gover - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Isomorphic Textiles: designing through technology in the medium of WholeGarment knitwear
2010Co-Authors: Alysha Joy GoverAbstract:Over the last sixty years, Knitting has evolved through new technology developments in the area of commercial knitwear. The birth of seamless knitwear in 1995 by Shima Seiki has become the pinnacle in cutting edge technology, with a women’s pleated pull over with structure design recently being knitted in 23 minutes and 19 seconds, on the newest ‘MACH2X15L’ machine (Rodie, 2009). Accompanying this manufacturing capability, designers have been introduced to a range of digital tools and methods that have changed the way they approach the development of commercially knitted apparel products. However, while this technology is being taken up across the Fashion/Textile Industry, generally knitwear designers are still not confident in using this technology to produce creative, innovative designs through the virtual interface of CAD Design systems. A recent study based upon a comprehensive survey from the 2006 UKHEI (United Kingdom Higher Education Institution) recognised the conceptual shift required in Integral Knitting: 3D seamless machine Knitting presents a new way of making clothing, forcing the designer to reassess ancient hand techniques.....the introduction of this complex technology forces a conceptual shift in the way knitted garments are designed and created (Sayer, Wilson & Challis, 2006, p.41). This research aims to investigate technical and aesthetic directional choices made by the designer in WholeGarment® knitwear design. Hunter (2004) has recognised that that the automation of Knitting software is a key element limiting flexible pattern creation in the revolution of Integral garment technology. Though the technical machinery and programming has developed and become highly sophisticated this has tended to leave the designer bewildered as to where to begin with computer aided design in a virtual realm. As a researcher-practitioner in the field of knitwear design, I have taken an exploratory approach conducting a series of informal experiments based on a series of design parameters through the production of sample swatches in different yarn types, various fabric construction techniques, digital textile printing and half scale knitted prototypes, which can be assessed for fit and garment construction. This practice-based, experimental research will assist in understanding and evaluating designing through technology, resulting in the completion of various knitted garments and a written exegesis. The Appendix in this thesis is a report on a TEC (Tertiary Education Commission) funded summer studentship project, conducted at the Textile & Design Laboratory between December 2009 and March 2010. It is titled Analysing the New Zealand Fashion Market: New Opportunities in Knitwear Design (Gover, A. 2010). The project documented in the report has contributed immensely to the background research and understanding of the commercial application of machine WholeGarment® Knitting. A capsule collection was developed as part of this project was used in industry to showcase some of the possibilities of WholeGarment ® Knitting and digital printing. The report demonstrates the value of applying educational research for practical industry application. Although the appendix is a separate body of work from the thesis, it is included as a foreground to this project. It provides information about the current New Zealand context and demonstrates insight into the background and rationale of this project in relation to the New Zealand knitwear market. In the report, the works of various designers and researchers working with these technologies have been documented to provide insight into a wider international context, alongside local applications.
Arkko Taru - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Bottlenecks in Knitwear and Knitted Bottlenecks : Knitwear Production with 3D Technology in Finland
Metropolia Ammattikorkeakoulu, 2013Co-Authors: Arkko TaruAbstract:The objective of this research was to look into integrated seamless knitwear production, also known as 3D. The latest developments in knitwear production like 3D were supposed to change the whole industry but nevertheless changes are happening slowly. As a tech-nique, it is unique in clothing production while the machine can knit a complete sweater in less than an hour. The Integral Knitting technique to make seamless knitwear has many advantages but also some obstacles and limitations and in this research, those will be looked at more carefully. This was carried out as an action research by co-operating with one local producer Kutomo Holopainen in Finland by investigating Knitting samples and prototypes and testing the possibilities with 3D. There is a very limited amount of garment production left in Europe and in Finland. New 3D production methods and printers are expected to bring industries and jobs back from the Far East and, therefore, the reasons for global sourcing and also future scenarios are discussed for textile and fashion industry for the EU by 2020. The focus will be on the design of the products together with the 3D production. Good de-sign should not only help selling the products but in this case also saves time and money in production. The production is run by a technician and one of the challenges is to have good communication between the technician and the designer. Knitwear together with 3D production should give excellent opportunities in finding interesting solutions in both what comes to the look of the products and the manufacturing.Tämän opinnäytetyön tavoitteena oli tutustua 3D:nä tunnetun saumattoman integroidun neuleen tuotantoon. Viimeisimpien kehitysten neuletuotannossa kuten 3D:n oli tarkoitus muuttaa koko teollisuutta, mutta muutokset tapahtuvat hitaasti. Tekniikkana se on ainutlaa-tuinen vaatteen valmistuksessa, kun valmiin neuleen tuotanto voi tapahtua alle tunnissa. Saumattomia neuleita valmistavalla integroidulla neuletekniikalla on monia etuja, mutta myös joitain haasteita ja rajoituksia ja tässä tutkimuksessa on tarkoitus perehtyä niihin tarkemmin. Tämä tapahtui toimintatutkimuksena Suomessa yhteistyössä paikallisen neu-leyrityksen Kutomo Holopaisen kanssa neulomalla koekappaleita ja prototyyppejä ja tes-taamalla 3D:n mahdollisuuksia Vaatetusteollisuutta on jäljellä enään hyvin rajoitetusti Euroopassa ja Suomessa. Uusien 3D valmistus- ja tulostustekniikoiden uskotaan tuovan teollisuutta ja työpaikkoja takaisin Kaukoidästä ja siitä syystä lyhyesti globaalin tuotannon syistä ja myös EU:n tulevaisuuden skenaarioista tekstiili- ja vaatetusteollisuudelle vuodelle 2020. . Tutkimuksessa on keskitytty tuotesuunnitteluun yhdessä 3D tuotannon kanssa. Hyvä suunnittelu ei ainoastaan auta myymään tuotetta, vaan tässä tapauksessa myös säästää aikaa ja kustannuksia tuotannossa. Tuotantoa hoitaa teknikko ja yksi haasteista oli hyvä kommunikointi teknikon ja suunnittelijan välillä. Neuleella yhdistettynä 3D tuotantoon pitäisi olla erinomaisia mahdollisuuksia löytää kiinnostavia ratkaisuja tuotteen ulkonäköön ja valmistukseen
Joel Peterson - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Production and business methods in the Integral Knitting supply chain
Autex Research Journal, 2007Co-Authors: Joel Peterson, Daniel EkwallAbstract:Over the last 20 years there has been a dramatic technical development of machines and software in the production of knitted fashion garments. This development has made it possible to rationalise design and production of knitted garments so that today it is possible to make a knitted garment, almost ready made, directly in the Knitting machine, with a minimum of processes, such as cutting and sewing. The objective of this paper is to explain and give examples of how this new Knitting production technology could be implemented in a fast fashion logistic system. The method for this paper is an inductive approach based on a literature survey. The new technical achievements have not meant the great breakthrough that was expected. Why? Many companies moved their production to development countries where the costs ofproduction, mainly labour costs are lower than in western countries. Another reason is that it is not enough to invest in new machinery and then use the machines in the same production system as before. To gain the benefits of this technique the production processes in the company have to be changed and adapted to these new conditions. The lack of knowledge in supply chain design and a one-sided perspective on production costs, instead of a customer orientated one, is one explanation. This, in a business (fashion) where the demand is changing dayby-day and the short time to market is vital to a company’s ability to be competitive. This article describes the Integral and complete garment Knitting techniques and the advantages that they open up, both from a logistics and a technical point of view. An Integral knitted whole garment technology, implemented and adjusted to the production and business system in a company, can reduce lead times dramatically and respond quickly to the rapidly changing fashion market.