Wave Setup

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J.a. Roelvink - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Modeling the effect of Wave‐vegetation interaction on Wave Setup
    Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2016
    Co-Authors: A. A. Van Rooijen, Robert Mccall, J.s.m. Van Thiel De Vries, A. R. Van Dongeren, Ad Reniers, J.a. Roelvink
    Abstract:

    Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates Wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell Waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) Waves and Wave Setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG Waves and Wave Setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the storm impact model XBeach is extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG Waves, and Wave Setup effects in two modes: the sea-swell Wave phase-resolving (nonhydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode, a Wave shape model is implemented to capture the effect of nonlinear Wave-vegetation interaction processes on Wave Setup. Both modeling modes are verified using data from two flume experiments with mimic vegetation and show good skill in computing the sea-swell and IG Wave transformation, and Wave Setup. In surfbeat mode, the Wave Setup prediction greatly improves when using the Wave shape model, while in nonhydrostatic mode (nonlinear) intraWave effects are directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model is used for a range of coastal geomorphological configurations by varying bed slope and vegetation extent. The results indicate that the effect of Wave-vegetation interaction on Wave Setup may be relevant for a range of typical coastal geomorphological configurations (e.g., relatively steep to gentle slope coasts fronted by vegetation).

  • modeling the effect of Wave vegetation interaction on Wave Setup
    Journal of Geophysical Research, 2016
    Co-Authors: A. A. Van Rooijen, Robert Mccall, J.s.m. Van Thiel De Vries, A. R. Van Dongeren, Ad Reniers, J.a. Roelvink
    Abstract:

    Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates Wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell Waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) Waves and Wave Setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG Waves and Wave Setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the storm impact model XBeach is extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG Waves, and Wave Setup effects in two modes: the sea-swell Wave phase-resolving (nonhydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode, a Wave shape model is implemented to capture the effect of nonlinear Wave-vegetation interaction processes on Wave Setup. Both modeling modes are verified using data from two flume experiments with mimic vegetation and show good skill in computing the sea-swell and IG Wave transformation, and Wave Setup. In surfbeat mode, the Wave Setup prediction greatly improves when using the Wave shape model, while in nonhydrostatic mode (nonlinear) intraWave effects are directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model is used for a range of coastal geomorphological configurations by varying bed slope and vegetation extent. The results indicate that the effect of Wave-vegetation interaction on Wave Setup may be relevant for a range of typical coastal geomorphological configurations (e.g., relatively steep to gentle slope coasts fronted by vegetation).

A. A. Van Rooijen - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Modeling the effect of Wave‐vegetation interaction on Wave Setup
    Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2016
    Co-Authors: A. A. Van Rooijen, Robert Mccall, J.s.m. Van Thiel De Vries, A. R. Van Dongeren, Ad Reniers, J.a. Roelvink
    Abstract:

    Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates Wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell Waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) Waves and Wave Setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG Waves and Wave Setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the storm impact model XBeach is extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG Waves, and Wave Setup effects in two modes: the sea-swell Wave phase-resolving (nonhydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode, a Wave shape model is implemented to capture the effect of nonlinear Wave-vegetation interaction processes on Wave Setup. Both modeling modes are verified using data from two flume experiments with mimic vegetation and show good skill in computing the sea-swell and IG Wave transformation, and Wave Setup. In surfbeat mode, the Wave Setup prediction greatly improves when using the Wave shape model, while in nonhydrostatic mode (nonlinear) intraWave effects are directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model is used for a range of coastal geomorphological configurations by varying bed slope and vegetation extent. The results indicate that the effect of Wave-vegetation interaction on Wave Setup may be relevant for a range of typical coastal geomorphological configurations (e.g., relatively steep to gentle slope coasts fronted by vegetation).

  • modeling the effect of Wave vegetation interaction on Wave Setup
    Journal of Geophysical Research, 2016
    Co-Authors: A. A. Van Rooijen, Robert Mccall, J.s.m. Van Thiel De Vries, A. R. Van Dongeren, Ad Reniers, J.a. Roelvink
    Abstract:

    Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates Wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell Waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) Waves and Wave Setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG Waves and Wave Setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the storm impact model XBeach is extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG Waves, and Wave Setup effects in two modes: the sea-swell Wave phase-resolving (nonhydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode, a Wave shape model is implemented to capture the effect of nonlinear Wave-vegetation interaction processes on Wave Setup. Both modeling modes are verified using data from two flume experiments with mimic vegetation and show good skill in computing the sea-swell and IG Wave transformation, and Wave Setup. In surfbeat mode, the Wave Setup prediction greatly improves when using the Wave shape model, while in nonhydrostatic mode (nonlinear) intraWave effects are directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model is used for a range of coastal geomorphological configurations by varying bed slope and vegetation extent. The results indicate that the effect of Wave-vegetation interaction on Wave Setup may be relevant for a range of typical coastal geomorphological configurations (e.g., relatively steep to gentle slope coasts fronted by vegetation).

Christopher J. Bender - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Static Wave Setup with emphasis on damping effects by vegetation and bottom friction
    Coastal Engineering, 2006
    Co-Authors: Robert G. Dean, Christopher J. Bender
    Abstract:

    2016-12-26T15:09:09

  • Static Wave Setup with emphasis on damping effects by vegetation and bottom friction
    Coastal Engineering, 2005
    Co-Authors: Robert G. Dean, Christopher J. Bender
    Abstract:

    Abstract Wave Setup can contribute significantly to elevated water levels during severe storms. In Florida we have found that Wave Setup can be 30% to 60% of the total 100-year storm surge. In areas with relatively narrow continental shelves, such as many locations along the Pacific Coast of the United States, Wave Setup can be an even larger proportionate contributor of anomalous water levels during major storms. Wave Setup can be considered as comprising two components, with the first being the well-known static Wave Setup resulting from the transfer of breaking Wave momentum to the water column. The second, oscillating component, is a result of nonlinear transfer of energy and momentum from the primary (linear) spectrum to Waves with length and time scales on the order of the Wave groups. Static Wave Setup is the focus of this paper with emphasis on effects due to internal or surface forces that act on the Wave system and cause both dissipation of Wave energy and transfer of momentum. In particular, the effects of Wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered. Linear Wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water Waves, the Setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces. Effects of nonlinear Waves are then considered and it is found, for a shallow water Wave of approximately one-half breaking height, that a Wave setdown rather than Setup occurs due to damping by vegetation and bottom friction. The problem of Wave Setup as Waves propagate through vegetation was stimulated by studies to establish hazard zones associated with 100-year storm events along the shorelines of the United States. These storms can generate elevated water levels exceeding 4 to 6 m and can result in overland Wave propagation. As these Waves propagate through vegetation and damp, the question arose as to the contribution of this process to elevated mean water levels through additional Wave Setup.

Anouk De Bakker - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Impacts of Wave-induced circulation in the surf zone on Wave Setup
    Ocean Modelling, 2018
    Co-Authors: Thomas Guérin, Xavier Bertin, Thibault Coulombier, Anouk De Bakker
    Abstract:

    Abstract Wave Setup corresponds to the increase in mean water level along the coast associated with the breaking of short-Waves and is of key importance for coastal dynamics, as it contributes to storm surges and the generation of undertows. Although overall well explained by the divergence of the momentum flux associated with short Waves in the surf zone, several studies reported substantial underestimations along the coastline. This paper investigates the impacts of the Wave-induced circulation that takes place in the surf zone on Wave Setup, based on the analysis of 3D modelling results. A 3D phase-averaged modelling system using a vortex force formalism is applied to hindcast an unpublished field experiment, carried out at a dissipative beach under moderate to very energetic Wave conditions ( H m 0 = 6 m at breaking and T p = 22 s ). When using an adaptive Wave breaking parameterisation based on the beach slope, model predictions for water levels, short Waves and undertows improved by about 30%, with errors reducing to 0.10 m, 0.10 m and 0.09 m/s, respectively. The analysis of model results suggests a very limited impact of the vertical circulation on Wave Setup at this dissipative beach. When extending this analysis to idealized simulations for different beach slopes ranging from 0.01 to 0.05, it shows that the contribution of the vertical circulation (horizontal and vertical advection and vertical viscosity terms) becomes more and more relevant as the beach slope increases. In contrast, for a given beach slope, the Wave height at the breaking point has a limited impact on the relative contribution of the vertical circulation on the Wave Setup. For a slope of 0.05, the contribution of the terms associated with the vertical circulation accounts for up to 17% (i.e. a 20% increase) of the total Setup at the shoreline, which provides a new explanation for the underestimations reported in previously published studies.

Masudar Rahman - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.

  • Wave breaking and bubble formation associate energy dissipation and Wave Setup
    Ocean Dynamics, 2019
    Co-Authors: Ashabul Hoque, Nur Hossain, Masudar Rahman
    Abstract:

    In this work, theoretical development of void fraction effect over Wave energy dissipation and Wave Setup in a surf zone is made. The formulation incorporates simple energy dissipation model, energy balance equation, and momentum balance equation in air-water mixture fields. The important quantities, such as the energy flux, the radiation stress, the energy dissipation, and the Wave Setup, are computed and the role of the individual terms in the governing equations is discussed. Void fraction effect in the estimated energy flux in energy balance equation shows to be less dominating over the others. Finally, the void fraction effects for Wave height and Wave Setup are calculated, which demonstrates a good agreement with the experimental results.

  • DETERMINATION OF Wave HEIGHT AND Wave Setup IN THE SURF ZONE
    2014
    Co-Authors: Masudar Rahman, Shuzon Ali, Abdul Al Mohit
    Abstract:

    The coast of Bangladesh has certain feature in terms of significant beach profile. In this study, the Wave height determine with linear beach profile from Dally’s model has been discussed. The energy and momentum balance equations are solved by finite difference method. The result of Wave height and Wave set up shows good agreement with observed data.