The Experts below are selected from a list of 381 Experts worldwide ranked by ideXlab platform
Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. Collection - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
-
Sheath dress with vest, sleeveless, pale gold and tangerine chiffon with rows of bugle beads, c. 1923, back view
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:c. 1923. Sleeveless one-piece knee-length sheath dress made with an under-layer of pale gold silk satin and an overlay of pale tangerine silk chiffon with bands of silvered beads, with a matching pale tangerine silk chiffon vest. The bodice has no shaping and is cut from one rectangle of silk satin, made to wrap around the chest beneath the arms with no shoulder straps. The rectangle is sewn together with a 28.6 cm / 11.25 in. long seam at the left side, and has a shallow dart at the right side. Two narrow strips, 3.2 cm / 1.25 in. wide, are added in at the left side seam to widen the panel. The skirt is also made from one panel, sewn together at the left with a 57.2 cm / 22.5 in. long seam. The waist seam joining bodice to skirt is 108 cm / 42.5 in. around and is dropped below the natural waist level. There are no openings or closures. At the front of the bodice, a panel of sheer pale gold silk chiffon, 8.9 cm / 3.5 in. longer than the satin, is sewn to the foundation dress at the sides and waist. It rises higher at the neckline than the satin does and forms a scooped neck, shoulder straps, and Armholes. It is sewn at the sides and shoulder seams to another panel of crepe, 16.5 cm / 6.5 in. deep, itself sewn to the top of the foundation layer in back. The skirt has a sheer pale tangerine silk chiffon overlay made of one rectangular panel 63.5 cm / 25 in. long, currently open at the right front. This has eleven strips of chiffon sewn in horizontal rows from the waist seam to the hem, machine-sewn with silvered bugle beads in meanders and triple horizontal rows. They are free to move and shimmy. The row at the hem is fully sewn down at its top and bottom edges, but the ten rows above it are attached only at the top of each strip, each overhanging the row beneath. The dress is made to pull on over the head with no openings for dressing. A vest made from one piece of sheer pale tangerine chiffon, sewn only at the 10.2 cm / 4 in. wide shoulder seams, is edged all the way around its hem and opening with a length of the bugle-bead-sewn chiffon. There are seven strips of the fabric sewn horizontally between the hem and the Armhole, all attached only at the top, free to move and shimmy. The vest is 41.9 cm / 16.5 in. long at the sides, extending past the dropped waist of the dress. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1927/thumbnail.jp
-
Dress, red and cream striped printed cotton, c. 1850s, side view
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:c. 1850s. Red and cream striped printed cotton mull dress with a front-closing, short-sleeved bodice, and evenly gathered floor-length skirt; altered. The dress is one piece with the skirt sewn to a narrow waistband which is itself attached to the bodice. The bodice has a center-front opening which extends into the skirt and a round waistline at the natural level. The fabric is a very fine cotton mull, roller-printed in alternating ground-printed and figure-printed stripes. The ground-printed stripes are turkey red, with flowers, leaves, and decorative elements left un-inked to reveal the cream color of the fabric. The edges of the stripes have small rectangles extending past the solid border. The figure-printed stripes have sprigs of brown and gold-colored leaves, flowers, and berries on the cream fabric ground, and are edged with a border of small gold-colored rectangles which almost touch the red rectangles but are aligned with the unprinted spaces between them. The bodice has a fitted cotton lining of two fronts and one back piece, overlaid by the delicate mull. The mull has six panels in all, two each of front, side, and back. The front panels lie smoothly at the shoulders but are slightly wider than the lining at the waist and are gathered to fit. The mull is 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide at the waist and is gathered down to 11.4 cm / 4.5 in. on the right front panel and 8.9 cm / 3.5 in. on the left. The side panels lie smoothly, reaching from side front to side back. The back is in two pieces with a center-back seam, fits smoothly at the shoulders and neckline, and is wider at the waist where it is gathered to the center back, 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide fabric gathered to 11.7 cm / 4.625 in. The lining shows rust stains from now-missing hooks at the front opening, and the mull is not sewn down to it along the opening edge. The shoulder seam is positioned to the back of the shoulder and the Armhole is slightly dropped. The bottom edge of the bodice is finished with a fine, narrow piping of the same fabric. The dress has been altered from its original state, making dating uncertain. The lining has two bust darts on each front panel, but these are stitched with a clumsier hand and heavier thread than the rest of the construction and it is not clear if they follow an original line. The neckline has been altered into a wide scooping shape and is not well finished. The short sleeves with their ruffled hem still retain their original piped Armhole, but have been cut open on the underside and tacked to the sides of the bodice, obscuring the original construction. It is likely that the dress once had long undersleeves, now removed, and that these are the original short oversleeves. The skirt is constructed of five straight rectangular panels tightly pleated and evenly distributed around the waist. The panels are expertly seamed so as to be almost invisible; four 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide lengths are sewn selvedge to selvedge with careful pattern matching, and one panel at the right of center back is cut down to a 64.8 cm / 25.5 in. width but in such a way as to also match the pattern. A short slit for the center-front opening is cut into the front panel. The skirt is unlined. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1361/thumbnail.jp
-
Dress, red and cream striped printed cotton, c. 1850s, detail of sleeve ruffle
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:c. 1850s. Red and cream striped printed cotton mull dress with a front-closing, short-sleeved bodice, and evenly gathered floor-length skirt; altered. The dress is one piece with the skirt sewn to a narrow waistband which is itself attached to the bodice. The bodice has a center-front opening which extends into the skirt and a round waistline at the natural level. The fabric is a very fine cotton mull, roller-printed in alternating ground-printed and figure-printed stripes. The ground-printed stripes are turkey red, with flowers, leaves, and decorative elements left un-inked to reveal the cream color of the fabric. The edges of the stripes have small rectangles extending past the solid border. The figure-printed stripes have sprigs of brown and gold-colored leaves, flowers, and berries on the cream fabric ground, and are edged with a border of small gold-colored rectangles which almost touch the red rectangles but are aligned with the unprinted spaces between them. The bodice has a fitted cotton lining of two fronts and one back piece, overlaid by the delicate mull. The mull has six panels in all, two each of front, side, and back. The front panels lie smoothly at the shoulders but are slightly wider than the lining at the waist and are gathered to fit. The mull is 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide at the waist and is gathered down to 11.4 cm / 4.5 in. on the right front panel and 8.9 cm / 3.5 in. on the left. The side panels lie smoothly, reaching from side front to side back. The back is in two pieces with a center-back seam, fits smoothly at the shoulders and neckline, and is wider at the waist where it is gathered to the center back, 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide fabric gathered to 11.7 cm / 4.625 in. The lining shows rust stains from now-missing hooks at the front opening, and the mull is not sewn down to it along the opening edge. The shoulder seam is positioned to the back of the shoulder and the Armhole is slightly dropped. The bottom edge of the bodice is finished with a fine, narrow piping of the same fabric. The dress has been altered from its original state, making dating uncertain. The lining has two bust darts on each front panel, but these are stitched with a clumsier hand and heavier thread than the rest of the construction and it is not clear if they follow an original line. The neckline has been altered into a wide scooping shape and is not well finished. The short sleeves with their ruffled hem still retain their original piped Armhole, but have been cut open on the underside and tacked to the sides of the bodice, obscuring the original construction. It is likely that the dress once had long undersleeves, now removed, and that these are the original short oversleeves. The skirt is constructed of five straight rectangular panels tightly pleated and evenly distributed around the waist. The panels are expertly seamed so as to be almost invisible; four 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide lengths are sewn selvedge to selvedge with careful pattern matching, and one panel at the right of center back is cut down to a 64.8 cm / 25.5 in. width but in such a way as to also match the pattern. A short slit for the center-front opening is cut into the front panel. The skirt is unlined. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1364/thumbnail.jp
-
Dress, red and cream striped printed cotton, c. 1850s, back view
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:c. 1850s. Red and cream striped printed cotton mull dress with a front-closing, short-sleeved bodice, and evenly gathered floor-length skirt; altered. The dress is one piece with the skirt sewn to a narrow waistband which is itself attached to the bodice. The bodice has a center-front opening which extends into the skirt and a round waistline at the natural level. The fabric is a very fine cotton mull, roller-printed in alternating ground-printed and figure-printed stripes. The ground-printed stripes are turkey red, with flowers, leaves, and decorative elements left un-inked to reveal the cream color of the fabric. The edges of the stripes have small rectangles extending past the solid border. The figure-printed stripes have sprigs of brown and gold-colored leaves, flowers, and berries on the cream fabric ground, and are edged with a border of small gold-colored rectangles which almost touch the red rectangles but are aligned with the unprinted spaces between them. The bodice has a fitted cotton lining of two fronts and one back piece, overlaid by the delicate mull. The mull has six panels in all, two each of front, side, and back. The front panels lie smoothly at the shoulders but are slightly wider than the lining at the waist and are gathered to fit. The mull is 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide at the waist and is gathered down to 11.4 cm / 4.5 in. on the right front panel and 8.9 cm / 3.5 in. on the left. The side panels lie smoothly, reaching from side front to side back. The back is in two pieces with a center-back seam, fits smoothly at the shoulders and neckline, and is wider at the waist where it is gathered to the center back, 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide fabric gathered to 11.7 cm / 4.625 in. The lining shows rust stains from now-missing hooks at the front opening, and the mull is not sewn down to it along the opening edge. The shoulder seam is positioned to the back of the shoulder and the Armhole is slightly dropped. The bottom edge of the bodice is finished with a fine, narrow piping of the same fabric. The dress has been altered from its original state, making dating uncertain. The lining has two bust darts on each front panel, but these are stitched with a clumsier hand and heavier thread than the rest of the construction and it is not clear if they follow an original line. The neckline has been altered into a wide scooping shape and is not well finished. The short sleeves with their ruffled hem still retain their original piped Armhole, but have been cut open on the underside and tacked to the sides of the bodice, obscuring the original construction. It is likely that the dress once had long undersleeves, now removed, and that these are the original short oversleeves. The skirt is constructed of five straight rectangular panels tightly pleated and evenly distributed around the waist. The panels are expertly seamed so as to be almost invisible; four 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide lengths are sewn selvedge to selvedge with careful pattern matching, and one panel at the right of center back is cut down to a 64.8 cm / 25.5 in. width but in such a way as to also match the pattern. A short slit for the center-front opening is cut into the front panel. The skirt is unlined. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1362/thumbnail.jp
-
Dress, red and cream striped printed cotton, c. 1850s, detail of center back bodice and skirt
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:c. 1850s. Red and cream striped printed cotton mull dress with a front-closing, short-sleeved bodice, and evenly gathered floor-length skirt; altered. The dress is one piece with the skirt sewn to a narrow waistband which is itself attached to the bodice. The bodice has a center-front opening which extends into the skirt and a round waistline at the natural level. The fabric is a very fine cotton mull, roller-printed in alternating ground-printed and figure-printed stripes. The ground-printed stripes are turkey red, with flowers, leaves, and decorative elements left un-inked to reveal the cream color of the fabric. The edges of the stripes have small rectangles extending past the solid border. The figure-printed stripes have sprigs of brown and gold-colored leaves, flowers, and berries on the cream fabric ground, and are edged with a border of small gold-colored rectangles which almost touch the red rectangles but are aligned with the unprinted spaces between them. The bodice has a fitted cotton lining of two fronts and one back piece, overlaid by the delicate mull. The mull has six panels in all, two each of front, side, and back. The front panels lie smoothly at the shoulders but are slightly wider than the lining at the waist and are gathered to fit. The mull is 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide at the waist and is gathered down to 11.4 cm / 4.5 in. on the right front panel and 8.9 cm / 3.5 in. on the left. The side panels lie smoothly, reaching from side front to side back. The back is in two pieces with a center-back seam, fits smoothly at the shoulders and neckline, and is wider at the waist where it is gathered to the center back, 23.5 cm / 9.25 in. wide fabric gathered to 11.7 cm / 4.625 in. The lining shows rust stains from now-missing hooks at the front opening, and the mull is not sewn down to it along the opening edge. The shoulder seam is positioned to the back of the shoulder and the Armhole is slightly dropped. The bottom edge of the bodice is finished with a fine, narrow piping of the same fabric. The dress has been altered from its original state, making dating uncertain. The lining has two bust darts on each front panel, but these are stitched with a clumsier hand and heavier thread than the rest of the construction and it is not clear if they follow an original line. The neckline has been altered into a wide scooping shape and is not well finished. The short sleeves with their ruffled hem still retain their original piped Armhole, but have been cut open on the underside and tacked to the sides of the bodice, obscuring the original construction. It is likely that the dress once had long undersleeves, now removed, and that these are the original short oversleeves. The skirt is constructed of five straight rectangular panels tightly pleated and evenly distributed around the waist. The panels are expertly seamed so as to be almost invisible; four 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide lengths are sewn selvedge to selvedge with careful pattern matching, and one panel at the right of center back is cut down to a 64.8 cm / 25.5 in. width but in such a way as to also match the pattern. A short slit for the center-front opening is cut into the front panel. The skirt is unlined. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1363/thumbnail.jp
L. F. Cheung - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
-
Single Parameter Model Of Minimal Surface Construction For Dynamic Garment Pattern Design *
2016Co-Authors: L. F. CheungAbstract:Abstract. Dynamic ease allowance is the amount of spacing between the garment and the wearer that is required to allow the wearer to performance certain posture. Without sufficient dynamic ease allowance, the motion of the wearer will be restricted. In this article, the authors present a single parameter model, which aims at calculating the minimal surface needed for performing some required postures. In this model, the boundary conditions are imposed at the wrist and waist. An additional collocation condition is imposed at the Armhole. The minimal surface must pass through both end points (wrist and waist) and the collocation point (Armhole). The formulation will be presented and compared with physical data
-
Dynamic ease allowance in arm raising of functional garment
The Society of Fiber Science and Technology Japan, 2008Co-Authors: Ng R, L. F. Cheung, Yu WAbstract:The functional garments are important protective device for the disciplinary forces, such as police, fireman and soldier. Typical protective garments are made of special non-stretchable fabric and hence can restrict the movement of the wearer if the garment is not designed properly. A protective garment that can ensure maximal range-of-motion can be a difference of life and death when the disciplinary force is on duty. There are many aspects of range-of-motion. In the current study, we address the question of the appropriate amount of dynamic ease allowance (movement ease) required for any given height that the arm is supposed to reach. The relationship among the dynamic ease allowance, under arm sleeve length, and side seam length was derived, by using the rod joint model of the human being and assuming the motion is a cross-sectional one along the frontal plane. Sixty subjects wore the special net garment to record the reference of zero dynamic ease allowance, and then the adjustable garments of different scye depth, which is related to the dynamic ease allowance. The subjects were asked to move their arm along a vertical plane, from rest position to the maximum height that they can reach. Such motions were recorded by a motion capturing system. The experimental data was compared to the theoretical prediction. Since the analysis was conducted using the 3-D data and the garment measurements must be converted from the 3-D environment (when the garment is worn) to the 2-D environment (when the garment is not worn). The conversion approximation is also presented. Consequently, when the required posture is known, the required scye depth and the required dynamic seam allowance can be found. The Armhole can be designed accordingly.Institute of Textiles and Clothin
-
Single parameter model of minimal surface construction for dynamic garment pattern design
World Academic Press World Academic Union, 2007Co-Authors: Ng R, L. F. Cheung, Yu WAbstract:Dynamic ease allowance is the amount of spacing between the garment and the wearer that is required to allow the wearer to performance certain posture. Without sufficient dynamic ease allowance, the motion of the wearer will be restricted. In this article, the authors present a single parameter model, which aims at calculating the minimal surface needed for performing some required postures. In this model, the boundary conditions are imposed at the wrist and waist. An additional collocation condition is imposed at the Armhole. The minimal surface must pass through both end points (wrist and waist) and the collocation point (Armhole). The formulation will be presented and compared with physical data.Institute of Textiles and Clothin
-
Single parameter model of minimal surface construction for dynamic garment pattern design
Tsinghua University Press, 2006Co-Authors: Ng R, Yu W, L. F. CheungAbstract:IMACS Multiconference on Computational Engineering in Systems Applications (CESA 2006), Beijing, Peoples R China, 4-6 October 2006Dynamic ease allowance is the amount of spacing between the garment and the wearer that is required to allow the wearer to performance certain posture. Without sufficient dynamic ease allowance, the motion of the wearer will be restricted. In this article, the authors present a single parameter model, which aims at calculating the minimal surface needed for performing some required postures. In this model, the boundary conditions are imposed at the wrist and waist. An additional collocation condition is imposed at the Armhole. The minimal surface must pass through both end points (wrist and waist) and the collocation point (Armhole). The formulation will be presented and compared with physical data.Institute of Textiles and ClothingRefereed conference pape
Almond K - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
-
Comparative study of calculated and actual dimensions in shaped weft-knitwear
'Informa UK Limited', 2019Co-Authors: Ej Power, Almond KAbstract:This research explores and quantifies the relationship between traditional mathematical theories used for the calculation of fully-fashioned, weft-knitwear and the physical measurements of knitted garments in order to improve sizing accuracy within knitted garment production. Experiments were conducted to compare and contrast fashioning frequencies for 10-gauge knitted structures, which determined the resultant selvedge dimensions specifically within the Armhole region. The trials used the geometrical principle of Pythagoras Theorem to calculate sleeve head and Armhole shapes from the stitch densities. The findings identified that the greater distance between the fashionings, the less distortion occurred within the knitted structure and therefore a stronger relationship existed between the calculated seam dimensions and those measured from the physical knitted panels. The research developed new methods for calculating fit and alignment in commercial, fully-fashioned, weft-knitwear. This will result in a more sustainable, fully-fashioned, knitted product and reduce the number of returns to the retailer, due to size inaccuracies
-
Comparative Study of Calculated and Actual Dimensions in Shaped Weft Knitwear
The Textile Institute, 2026Co-Authors: Almond K, Power JAbstract:The research aims to quantify the relationship between traditional mathematical theories used for the calculation of fully-fashioned, weft knitwear and the physical measurements of the garment. In contemporary weft knitting it is important to establish new relationships between calculated dimensions and knitted garments to improve fit and comfort during wear. A series of experiments were conducted in a controlled environment to compare and contrast fashioning frequencies, to determine the impact on the resultant selvedge dimensions. The trials were conducted using the basic principle of Pythagoras Theorem to calculate the sleeve head and Armhole shapes from the stitch density. It was found that the greater the distance between the fashionings the less distortion occurred within the knitted structure and a stronger relationship existed between the calculated seam dimensions and those measured from the physical knitted panels. The research explores how this knowledge was transferred to a variety of traditional knitted Armhole shapes, thus providing quantifiable evidence to develop new methods for calculating shaped, fully-fashioned knitwear. The research expands existing technical knowledge and provides an important point of reference of lasting influence for improving patterning and shaping capabilities that will result in greater consumer satisfaction and a more sustainable knitwear product
Juarês José Aumond - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
-
Aplicação de uma técnica alternativa de manejo físico do solo no cultivo de Eucalyptus grandis W.Hill (Myrtaceae) Application of an alternative technique for physical soil management in cultivation of Eucalyptus grandis W.Hill (Myrtaceae)
Sociedade de Investigações Florestais, 2013Co-Authors: João Paulo De Maçaneiro, Rafaela Cristina Seubert, Juarês José AumondAbstract:O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o processo de crescimento do Eucalyptus grandis quando submetido à irregularização do terreno. Baseando-se na "Ótica da Teoria do Caos" e partindo-se da hipótese de que as áreas reflorestadas por E. grandis são consideravelmente sensíveis às condições iniciais de preparação do solo, aplicou-se a técnica das rugosidades (variações do relevo alternando superfícies côncavas e convexas) para desencadear ao longo do tempo propriedades emergentes que aceleram o processo de crescimento vegetal. A área de estudo localiza-se na Bacia Hidrográfica do Rio Itajaí, em Brusque, SC. Esta foi dividida em quatro parcelas menores: duas com tratamentos irregulares (IR-A e IR-B) e outras duas com tratamentos regulares (R-A e R-B). Os tratamentos irregulares consistiram na abertura de cavas, utilizando-se uma retroescavadeira hidráulica, intercaladas com 1 m de largura, 4 a 5 m de comprimento e 0,5 m de profundidade. Nos tratamentos regulares foi adotado o cultivo mínimo do solo, onde o preparo do solo ficou restrito às linhas ou covas de plantio. Na análise do desenvolvimento de E. grandis (altura, diâmetro do colo e na altura do peito - DAP) verificou-se diferenças estatísticas entre as técnicas de preparação do solo, sendo os maiores valores nos tratamentos irregulares. Nas parcelas irregulares (IR-A e IR-B) foram encontrados os maiores valores médios de altura (5,29 m e 5,46 m), diâmetro do colo (45,65 mm e 45,4 mm) e DAP (4,44 cm e 4,79 cm), respectivamente. Pressupõe-se que as rugosidades funcionaram efetivamente como componentes auxiliares na internalização da matéria, retendo água, sedimentos e nutrientes, fato que deve ter potencializado e acelerado o crescimento do E. grandis.The aim of this study was to evaluate the process of growth of Eucalyptus grandis non-regularization when subjected to the ground. Relying on "Optical Chaos Theory" and starting from the assumption that the reforested areas by E. grandis are considerably sensitive to the initial conditions of soil preparation was applied the technique of roughening (variations relief alternating concave and convex surfaces) to cause over time emergent properties that accelerate the process of plant growth. The study area is located on the Itajai River Basin, in Brusque, SC. This was divided into four smaller portions: two treatments with irregular (IR-A and IR-B) and two others with regular treatments (R-A and R-B). The treatments consisted of irregular Armhole opening, using a hydraulic backhoe, interspersed with 1 meter wide, 4 to 5 meters long and 0.5 meters deep. In regular treatments was adopted minimum tillage of the soil, where soil preparation was restricted to lines or planting holes. In the analysis of the development of E. grandis (height, diameter and breast height - DBH) was found statistical differences between the techniques of soil preparation, and the highest values in treatments irregular. In plots irregular (IR-A and IR-B) were found higher mean values of height (5.29 meters and 5.46 meters), stem diameter (45.65 mm and 45.4 mm) and DBH (4.44 cm to 4.79 cm), respectively. It is assumed that the roughness effectively functioned as auxiliary components in the internalization of matter, retaining water, sediments and nutrients, a fact that should have enhanced and accelerated the growth of E. grandis
Yu W - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
-
Dynamic ease allowance in arm raising of functional garment
The Society of Fiber Science and Technology Japan, 2008Co-Authors: Ng R, L. F. Cheung, Yu WAbstract:The functional garments are important protective device for the disciplinary forces, such as police, fireman and soldier. Typical protective garments are made of special non-stretchable fabric and hence can restrict the movement of the wearer if the garment is not designed properly. A protective garment that can ensure maximal range-of-motion can be a difference of life and death when the disciplinary force is on duty. There are many aspects of range-of-motion. In the current study, we address the question of the appropriate amount of dynamic ease allowance (movement ease) required for any given height that the arm is supposed to reach. The relationship among the dynamic ease allowance, under arm sleeve length, and side seam length was derived, by using the rod joint model of the human being and assuming the motion is a cross-sectional one along the frontal plane. Sixty subjects wore the special net garment to record the reference of zero dynamic ease allowance, and then the adjustable garments of different scye depth, which is related to the dynamic ease allowance. The subjects were asked to move their arm along a vertical plane, from rest position to the maximum height that they can reach. Such motions were recorded by a motion capturing system. The experimental data was compared to the theoretical prediction. Since the analysis was conducted using the 3-D data and the garment measurements must be converted from the 3-D environment (when the garment is worn) to the 2-D environment (when the garment is not worn). The conversion approximation is also presented. Consequently, when the required posture is known, the required scye depth and the required dynamic seam allowance can be found. The Armhole can be designed accordingly.Institute of Textiles and Clothin
-
Single parameter model of minimal surface construction for dynamic garment pattern design
World Academic Press World Academic Union, 2007Co-Authors: Ng R, L. F. Cheung, Yu WAbstract:Dynamic ease allowance is the amount of spacing between the garment and the wearer that is required to allow the wearer to performance certain posture. Without sufficient dynamic ease allowance, the motion of the wearer will be restricted. In this article, the authors present a single parameter model, which aims at calculating the minimal surface needed for performing some required postures. In this model, the boundary conditions are imposed at the wrist and waist. An additional collocation condition is imposed at the Armhole. The minimal surface must pass through both end points (wrist and waist) and the collocation point (Armhole). The formulation will be presented and compared with physical data.Institute of Textiles and Clothin
-
Single parameter model of minimal surface construction for dynamic garment pattern design
Tsinghua University Press, 2006Co-Authors: Ng R, Yu W, L. F. CheungAbstract:IMACS Multiconference on Computational Engineering in Systems Applications (CESA 2006), Beijing, Peoples R China, 4-6 October 2006Dynamic ease allowance is the amount of spacing between the garment and the wearer that is required to allow the wearer to performance certain posture. Without sufficient dynamic ease allowance, the motion of the wearer will be restricted. In this article, the authors present a single parameter model, which aims at calculating the minimal surface needed for performing some required postures. In this model, the boundary conditions are imposed at the wrist and waist. An additional collocation condition is imposed at the Armhole. The minimal surface must pass through both end points (wrist and waist) and the collocation point (Armhole). The formulation will be presented and compared with physical data.Institute of Textiles and ClothingRefereed conference pape