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Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. Collection - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Dress, paisley-printed mull with fan-front bodice and tiered skirt, 1863, detail of sleeve
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1863. Two-piece dress of cream cotton mull printed with paisley and floral motifs, constructed with a fan-front bodice opening in front and a separate floor-length three-tiered skirt. The fabric is a cream cotton mull, very fine, printed with turkey red, purple, brown, and green with small paisleys and flowers scattered over all and with large paisley and floral motifs printed in wide bands along the weft. These bands are used on the dress as border elements, but are not printed as borders along the Selvedges. There are also narrow bands of quatrefoils alternating red and purple, with flowers, printed with the same colors as used on the rest of the garment. The bodice is lined in the torso with white cotton to provide support for the delicate sheer mull fashion fabric, but has a wide scooped neckline. The lining has three fitted pieces: two front panels shaped with two boned darts on each side, and one back panel with a center back stay of whalebone. It closes at center front with hooks and eyes. The mull layer has three panels: one each in front, and one center-back panel. Each front panel is pleated to the entire length of its shoulder seam. A diagonal line of running stitches secures the close fit of each front panel from the front of the arm to the waist, and all the fullness from the shoulder pleats drapes over the bust creating a V shape before being gathered toward center front with four rows of horizontal stitches, fan-front style. The fabric is smooth at the sides and in back at the shoulders, and is gathered to center back at the waist by three horizontal gathering stitches placed between two curved running stitch lines at side back. The waistline is evenly round at the natural level. A 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. wide waistband has been added, covering the bottom rows of gathering stitches at the waist. The shoulders are dropped. A two-tier ruched puff holds the fabric snugly against the upper arm, and beneath this a section of the wide band motif is gathered to make a draped pagoda sleeve wide at the hem. The skirt is evenly gathered into a plain cotton waistband. Three tiers of ruffles or flounces made with the wide band motifs cover the majority of the skirt. These flounces are constructed out of 47 cm / 18.5 in. wide panels sewn Selvedge to Selvedge. The two top flounces are 30.2 cm / 11.875 in. deep while the bottom flounce is 27.9 cm / 11 in. deep. After the top row, the fabric to which the flounces are sewn is plain unprinted cotton mull. While the skirt has the same length front and back, a tuck has been taken up at center front to shorten the skirt by 7 cm / 2.75 in. to make walking easier. There is piping at the top of each skirt flounce, and at the scyes, bottom of the sleeve puff, and along the shoulder seams. The narrow band quatrefoil motif fabric is used as trim for the waistband and neckline; at the waistband it is edged top and bottom with piping, and at the neckline it is lightly pleated to fit the curve of the neck and its edges are stitched to make a scalloped finish. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1458/thumbnail.jp
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Quilted petticoat, yellow silk, 18th century, petticoat with dress Museum Number 117
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:18th century. Yellow silk quilted petticoat, lined with homespun white and yellow check wool, interlined with flax and wool. The petticoat is made with a canary yellow plain-woven or China silk that is 39.4 cm / 15.5 in. wide, in panels 83.2 cm / 32.75 in. long. There are eight straight panels in all, five using the full width of the silk and three that are cut narrower, and a yoke at the waist. Before quilting, two large rectangles of silk were assembled: one with three of the full-width panels sewn together Selvedge to Selvedge, adding on a cut piece 28.6 cm / 11.25 in. wide, and a second with two full-width panels sewn Selvedge to Selvedge, adding on 20.3 cm / 8 in. and 27.9 cm / 11 in. cut panels on either end. Similarly, six panels of the 72.4 cm / 28.5 in. wide homespun wool were sewn together into two rectangles to match the silk’s dimensions, with each rectangle having one full width of wool and two pieces cut narrower. A mixed flax and wool interlining was sandwiched between the pair of silk and woven wool rectangles, which were then each hand-quilted together in yellow silk thread with eight running stitches per inch. The main quilting pattern consists of eight horizontal rows of nested bands of five zig-zags, with an additional repeating design worked at the hem of six four-petaled flowers arranged within a triangle that has scalloped shapes and cross-hatching filling in the background. The quilted panels of the skirt have been sewn together into a tube with one seam at the left front side and another at the right back side. The skirt is gathered at its top edge to the yoke. It is likely that one of the panels was originally wider during the quilting process and cut down before assembly into a skirt in order to make the quilted yoke, which has a circumference at its seam with the skirt of 134.3 cm / 52.875 in., and is 12.7 cm / 5 in. wide in back, 6.7 cm / 2.625 in. wide in front, and 10.5 cm / 4.125 in. wide at the sides. The yoke is made in two halves with a seam at center front and an opening at center back. Its top edge is lightly gathered to fit the waist and is bound with silk. The hem of the petticoat is also bound with silk. The oval shape of the finished yoke, with its narrow front and wider sides, indicates that the petticoat was worn with small panniers or pocket hoops. Both the quilted petticoat and the printed cotton dress (Museum # 117) were owned by the same person and could well have been worn together. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1588/thumbnail.jp
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Housedress, white cotton printed with lavender, 1850-1860, side view
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1850-1860. White cotton and lavender-striped and dotted printed housedress, one piece, buttoned with a front opening to the floor, full-length loose sleeves and a floor-length, gathered skirt. The bodice has a three-part yoke that fits smoothly across the shoulders to along the top of the bust, and is completed with three rectangular lengths of fabric gathered to the yoke in front and back and then to the top of a 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. waistband. The fabric at the sides beneath the arms is smooth. The neck is high and the shoulders are dropped. The waistline is slightly high and round. The dress opens fully from neck to floor, buttoned with thirteen purple and white buttons, seven of them on the bodice, and with two hooks and eyes at the waist. The full-length sleeves fit the scye smoothly and flare slightly toward the wrist. Two ruffles finish the hem of the sleeves. The skirt is floor-length, slightly longer in back, constructed of five straight panels 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide, sewn Selvedge to Selvedge. The fabric is tightly gathered to the bottom of the waistband. The bodice has a white cotton lining only in the yoke and directly under the arms to the waist, and as a small cap sleeve inside. The skirt is unlined. Piping of the same fabric finishes the neck, yoke edge, and bottom of the waistband. Self-fabric ruffles used horizontally on the sleeves makes the printed stripes resemble trim. The waistband fabric is also used horizontally for visual emphasis. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1404/thumbnail.jp
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Housedress, white cotton printed with lavender, 1850-1860, detail of sleeve head lining
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1850-1860. White cotton and lavender-striped and dotted printed housedress, one piece, buttoned with a front opening to the floor, full-length loose sleeves and a floor-length, gathered skirt. The bodice has a three-part yoke that fits smoothly across the shoulders to along the top of the bust, and is completed with three rectangular lengths of fabric gathered to the yoke in front and back and then to the top of a 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. waistband. The fabric at the sides beneath the arms is smooth. The neck is high and the shoulders are dropped. The waistline is slightly high and round. The dress opens fully from neck to floor, buttoned with thirteen purple and white buttons, seven of them on the bodice, and with two hooks and eyes at the waist. The full-length sleeves fit the scye smoothly and flare slightly toward the wrist. Two ruffles finish the hem of the sleeves. The skirt is floor-length, slightly longer in back, constructed of five straight panels 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide, sewn Selvedge to Selvedge. The fabric is tightly gathered to the bottom of the waistband. The bodice has a white cotton lining only in the yoke and directly under the arms to the waist, and as a small cap sleeve inside. The skirt is unlined. Piping of the same fabric finishes the neck, yoke edge, and bottom of the waistband. Self-fabric ruffles used horizontally on the sleeves makes the printed stripes resemble trim. The waistband fabric is also used horizontally for visual emphasis. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1408/thumbnail.jp
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Housedress, white cotton printed with lavender, 1850-1860, back view
University of New Hampshire Scholars\u27 Repository, 2019Co-Authors: Irma Bowen Historic Clothing G. CollectionAbstract:1850-1860. White cotton and lavender-striped and dotted printed housedress, one piece, buttoned with a front opening to the floor, full-length loose sleeves and a floor-length, gathered skirt. The bodice has a three-part yoke that fits smoothly across the shoulders to along the top of the bust, and is completed with three rectangular lengths of fabric gathered to the yoke in front and back and then to the top of a 3.8 cm / 1.5 in. waistband. The fabric at the sides beneath the arms is smooth. The neck is high and the shoulders are dropped. The waistline is slightly high and round. The dress opens fully from neck to floor, buttoned with thirteen purple and white buttons, seven of them on the bodice, and with two hooks and eyes at the waist. The full-length sleeves fit the scye smoothly and flare slightly toward the wrist. Two ruffles finish the hem of the sleeves. The skirt is floor-length, slightly longer in back, constructed of five straight panels 80 cm / 31.5 in. wide, sewn Selvedge to Selvedge. The fabric is tightly gathered to the bottom of the waistband. The bodice has a white cotton lining only in the yoke and directly under the arms to the waist, and as a small cap sleeve inside. The skirt is unlined. Piping of the same fabric finishes the neck, yoke edge, and bottom of the waistband. Self-fabric ruffles used horizontally on the sleeves makes the printed stripes resemble trim. The waistband fabric is also used horizontally for visual emphasis. Hand-sewn.https://scholars.unh.edu/bowen_collection/1405/thumbnail.jp
Masuo Fukui - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Attenuated Total Reflection Spectra of the Aluminum and Silver Bilayer
Journal of the Physical Society of Japan, 1994Co-Authors: Richard Lang, Y. Okuno, Masuo FukuiAbstract:In a previous publication written by Lang and Fukui, the static electronic charge densities that appear in the immediate vicinity of the Al–Ag and Ag-air interfaces in order to screen surface effects (surface regions referred to as “Selvedges”) were assumed to emit supplementary electromagnetic fields when polarised by an incoming light wave. From the calculations, it was predicted that a new structure due to the Ag-air Selvedge should appear in the reflection spectra at wavelengths in the 330–350 nm interval. In the present paper, the experimental attenuated total reflection (ATR) frequency scan spectra obtained for various Al–Ag bilayers deposited on prisms in an ultra-high vacuum environment are presented. The expected structure was indeed visible in the spectra of samples that had a thicker silver layer. The experimental results were generally reproducible by using simple Fresnel optics, bulk dielectric constant models and the derived Selvedge theory.
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Selvedge Treatment of the Aluminum and Silver Bilayer System
Journal of the Physical Society of Japan, 1994Co-Authors: Richard Lang, Masuo FukuiAbstract:This paper is dedicated to the theoretical study of aluminum and silver bilayer systems submitted to an optical electromagnetic field. The bulk metallic layers are considered as neutral “jelliums” while the surface regions are modelled in terms of macroscopic as well as microscopic physics and they are referred to as “Selvedges”. These contain within their boundaries all interface roughness and surface atomic inhomogeneities. Furthermore, since the charge neutrality of the bulk media is broken close to the surface, the Selvedges will also contain static charge densities that have appeared in order to screen them. When the Selvedges are submitted to an incident optical beam, they are considered to be polarised and therefore emit supplementary fields. These are calculated with the help of the Heaviside notation and as a function of the electric polarisation and the electronic charge density distribution. An hydrodynamic approach and therefore Euler's equation were adopted in this case to account for the ele...
Richard Lang - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Attenuated Total Reflection Spectra of the Aluminum and Silver Bilayer
Journal of the Physical Society of Japan, 1994Co-Authors: Richard Lang, Y. Okuno, Masuo FukuiAbstract:In a previous publication written by Lang and Fukui, the static electronic charge densities that appear in the immediate vicinity of the Al–Ag and Ag-air interfaces in order to screen surface effects (surface regions referred to as “Selvedges”) were assumed to emit supplementary electromagnetic fields when polarised by an incoming light wave. From the calculations, it was predicted that a new structure due to the Ag-air Selvedge should appear in the reflection spectra at wavelengths in the 330–350 nm interval. In the present paper, the experimental attenuated total reflection (ATR) frequency scan spectra obtained for various Al–Ag bilayers deposited on prisms in an ultra-high vacuum environment are presented. The expected structure was indeed visible in the spectra of samples that had a thicker silver layer. The experimental results were generally reproducible by using simple Fresnel optics, bulk dielectric constant models and the derived Selvedge theory.
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Selvedge Treatment of the Aluminum and Silver Bilayer System
Journal of the Physical Society of Japan, 1994Co-Authors: Richard Lang, Masuo FukuiAbstract:This paper is dedicated to the theoretical study of aluminum and silver bilayer systems submitted to an optical electromagnetic field. The bulk metallic layers are considered as neutral “jelliums” while the surface regions are modelled in terms of macroscopic as well as microscopic physics and they are referred to as “Selvedges”. These contain within their boundaries all interface roughness and surface atomic inhomogeneities. Furthermore, since the charge neutrality of the bulk media is broken close to the surface, the Selvedges will also contain static charge densities that have appeared in order to screen them. When the Selvedges are submitted to an incident optical beam, they are considered to be polarised and therefore emit supplementary fields. These are calculated with the help of the Heaviside notation and as a function of the electric polarisation and the electronic charge density distribution. An hydrodynamic approach and therefore Euler's equation were adopted in this case to account for the ele...
Kenzo Hiraoka - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Study on ion formation in electrospray droplet impact secondary ion mass spectrometry
Rapid Communications in Mass Spectrometry, 2007Co-Authors: Daiki Asakawa, Susumu Fujimaki, Yutaka Hashimoto, Kunihiko Mori, Kenzo HiraokaAbstract:A new type of cluster secondary ion mass spectrometry (SIMS), named electrospray droplet impact (EDI), has been developed in our laboratory. In general, rather strong negative ions as well as positive ions can be generated by EDI compared with conventional SIMS. In this work, various aspects of ion formation in EDI are investigated. The Bronsted bases (proton acceptor) and acids (proton donor) mixed in the analyte samples enhanced the signal intensities of deprotonated molecules (negative ions) and protonated molecules (positive ions), respectively, for analytes. This suggests the occurrence of heterogeneous proton transfer reactions (i.e. M + M′ → [M+H]+ + [M′H]−) in the shockwave-heated Selvedge of the colliding interface between the water droplet and the solid sample deposited on the metal substrate. EDI-SIMS shows a remarkable tolerance to the large excess of salts present in samples. The mechanism for desorption/ionization in EDI is much simpler than those for MALDI and SIMS because only very thin sample layers take part in the shockwave-heated Selvedge and complicated higher-order reactions are largely suppressed. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
Ching Wen Lou - One of the best experts on this subject based on the ideXlab platform.
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Study on the Processing Technology and Mechanical Properties of Nonwoven Fabric Composited by Recycled PP Selvedges
Advanced Materials Research, 2011Co-Authors: Jia-horng Lin, Chia Chang Lin, Ming I Lin, Ting-ting Li, Jin-mao Chen, Ching Wen LouAbstract:Functional nonwoven products have superiority such as quick mass-production, short processing time, wide sources for raw material, low cost and high output etc. They have been widely studied and promoted in advanced countries. However, comparing with Selvedge processing, they brings considerable burden to environment. So in this paper, we chose low cost polyester (LPE) and low melting point fiber (LMPE) respectively blending by 50 wt% through the process of mixing, blowing, carding, laying, and needle punching etc. to form nonwoven fabric in which the needle density was adjusted. Finally it is found that 103 needles/cm2 was optimal after mechanical testing. And then different proportions of PP Selvedges were placed in the middle of two optimal nonwoven layers by sandwich structure, and mechanical properties of PET/LMPET/PP fabric produced after thermo bonding and cooling was tested. According to the optimal production evaluation for functionality, these products may apply to reinforced interlayer in general protective clothing, protective glove, reinforcement in simple building structure and stiffening geotextiles in the future.
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Manufacturing Technique and Physical Property of Metal Wires/ PP Nonwoven Selvedges Complex Ply Yarns and Knitted Fabrics
Advanced Materials Research, 2010Co-Authors: Ching Wen Lou, Chin Mei Lin, An Pang Chen, Yi Chang Yang, Chueh Pin Chen, Jia-horng LinAbstract:In this study, nonwoven Selvedges served as core yarn which was wrapped with stainless steel wires. Core yarn was added with functional materials such as stainless steel wires or copper wires or both. Functional polypropylene nonwoven Selvedges (PNS) complex ply yarns were made using a rotor twister machine. The wrapped density of stainless steel wires was changed as 0.5, 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 and 4.5 turns/cm and the speed of rotor twister was set at 8000 rpm. Shown in the mechanical property test of complex ply yarn, when speed of rotor twister was at 8000 rpm; wrapped density was 2.5 turns/ cm; and functional materials were copper wires and stainless steel wires, complex ply yarns made of polypropylene nonwoven Selvedges (PNS) had the maximum breaking force as 47.76N and maximum breaking elongation as 47.93%.